Home Inspection for New Construction: Phases and Costs

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A brand-new house can look flawless on the day of the final walkthrough, with fresh paint, clean carpet and appliances still wearing their stickers. That finish can hide problems that are cheaper to fix now than after the builder’s warranty runs out. A home inspection for new construction gives the buyer an independent set of eyes at the stages when defects are easiest to see and correct: before concrete is poured, before insulation and drywall cover the framing, before closing, and again before the first-year warranty ends. This guide explains why new homes still need inspections, how phase inspections work, what each one checks, the defects inspectors commonly report on new builds, why radon testing applies to new homes too, how builder access policies affect scheduling, and what the process typically costs.

Part of our Home Inspections Explained guide — start there for the full picture →

Why New Homes Still Need an Inspection

Many buyers assume a new home is inspected enough already. Municipal building inspectors do visit at required stages, but their job is code compliance on specific items at specific moments, often under tight schedules and across many homes in a day. They do not work for the buyer, and they do not produce a condition report the buyer can use to request corrections from the builder.

New homes are also built by many hands. A single house may involve separate crews for foundation, framing, roofing, siding, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, insulation, drywall, paint and finish carpentry. Each handoff is a chance for something to be missed, damaged by the next trade, or left unfinished. A missing flashing piece at a roof-to-wall joint, a disconnected duct boot in the attic, or a reversed grade at the foundation are typical examples of small errors that can lead to larger problems later.

An independent inspection does not mean the builder did poor work. Even well-run builders produce punch lists, and a good inspection simply makes that list more complete while the builder is still responsible for fixing it. The goal is a documented, specific list that the builder’s superintendent can act on.

The CFPB’s general guidance for buyers applies here as well: an independent inspector who is accountable to the buyer, scheduled early enough to resolve problems, is the core protection. It also recommends attending the inspection if possible, which is especially useful on new construction because the buyer can see framing and mechanical details that will soon be hidden.

Phase Inspections: Timing and What Gets Checked

New-construction inspections are usually split into phases that match the build schedule. Not every buyer orders every phase, and not every builder allows every phase, but the table below shows the common sequence.

Pre-pour or foundation inspection

Some inspectors offer a foundation-stage visit before concrete is placed. At this point, an inspector may look at form layout, the placement and support of reinforcing steel, under-slab plumbing, any vapor retarder, and whether radon-resistant features such as a gas-permeable layer and vent pipe are in place where the builder uses them. Availability varies a lot. This visit depends on tight timing with the concrete schedule, and some builders do not allow it. Where soils are a concern, an engineer’s foundation design and the engineer’s own site observations usually carry more weight than a home inspector’s visit, so treat this phase as a useful extra rather than a substitute for engineering oversight.

Pre-drywall inspection

For many buyers, this is the most valuable visit. Once drywall goes up, framing, wiring, plumbing and ductwork disappear from view for the life of the house. A pre-drywall inspection looks at framing members and connections, sheathing, window and door flashing, notched or bored studs and joists, fire blocking, plumbing and electrical rough-in, and duct routing. Problems found here are usually quick fixes for the builder. Our guide to the pre-drywall inspection explains timing and what to ask for.

Final inspection before closing

The final inspection resembles a standard home inspection. Many inspectors follow the ASHI Standard of Practice, which covers structural components, exterior, roofing, plumbing, electrical, heating and cooling, interiors, insulation and ventilation, and fireplaces. The report then becomes the basis for the builder’s punch list. Schedule it a few days before the builder’s walkthrough so there is time to share it. Our new construction home inspection checklist lists the items to verify at this stage.

The 11-month warranty inspection

Many builders offer a one-year workmanship warranty. Before it ends, a second full inspection can catch problems that only show up after a house has been lived in through seasons: nail pops and drywall cracks from framing shrinkage, grading that has settled toward the foundation, doors that stopped latching, gutters that overflow, or a furnace that struggles to heat an upper floor. Submitting a documented list before the deadline gives the builder a clear, timely claim. See our guides to the 11-month warranty inspection and to how a builder warranty typically works.

What the Inspection Covers and What It Doesn’t

At the final and 11-month stages, the ASHI standard gives a useful picture of scope. The inspector is required to inspect and describe the foundation and framing; exterior wall coverings, flashing, trim and doors; vegetation, grading, surface drainage and retaining walls likely to affect the building; roofing materials and drainage; water supply, drain, waste and vent systems and water heating equipment; the electrical service, panels, a representative number of fixtures and receptacles, and ground fault and arc fault circuit interrupters; heating and cooling equipment and distribution; interiors; and insulation, ventilation and exhaust systems.

The standard also lists exclusions. Inspectors are not required to provide engineering analysis, offer an opinion about the adequacy of structural systems, determine the cost of corrections, inspect geological and soil conditions, or report on environmental hazards including radioactive substances. Inspections under the standard are not technically exhaustive and are not required to identify concealed conditions. For new construction, two of these exclusions matter most:

• Code compliance: a home inspector reports conditions, not a formal code determination. When a finding looks like a code issue, the builder and the local building department are the ones who resolve it.
• Radon: because radioactive substances are outside the standard scope, radon testing is a separate service even on a brand-new home.

Common New-Build Findings

Every home is different, and the list below is not a prediction for any particular house. It reflects the kinds of items inspectors often report on new construction.

Grading and drainage

Final grades are sometimes set before landscaping, and backfill around the foundation can settle in the first year. Inspectors often note soil sloping toward the house, downspouts that discharge next to the foundation, or window wells without adequate drainage. Because the ASHI standard specifically includes grading and drainage likely to affect the building, these items usually appear on the report.

Flashing and water management

Roof-to-wall flashing, kickout flashing at the bottom of roof edges, window and door head flashing, and penetrations for vents and meters are frequent findings. These details are easy to miss during a fast build, and water intrusion from missing or reversed flashing may take months to show up inside.

Attic insulation gaps

Blown-in attic insulation can be disturbed by later trades, leaving thin spots around the attic hatch, at the eaves, or near equipment. Inspectors may also note missing baffles at soffit vents, uninsulated hatch covers, or bath fans that vent into the attic instead of outdoors. In homes with crawl spaces, missing or loose insulation is another possible item. Our guide to crawl space insulation types explains the common approaches.

HVAC balance and ductwork

Rooms far from the furnace, bonus rooms over garages and upper floors are common places for uneven heating and cooling. An inspector may find disconnected or crushed flex duct in the attic, missing return air paths, or supply registers with weak airflow. A home inspector does not perform a full load calculation or duct test, so a finding here typically leads to a request for the HVAC contractor to evaluate and balance the system.

Electrical items

Missing or mis-wired ground fault circuit interrupter or arc fault circuit interrupter protection, reversed polarity at receptacles, missing cover plates, and unlabeled panel circuits show up on new homes. The ASHI standard includes GFCI and AFCI devices in the electrical scope, and it requires the inspector to describe the presence or absence of smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.

Plumbing and fixtures

Loose fixtures, slow drains from construction debris, missing caulk at tubs and showers, and water heater installation details such as discharge pipe routing are typical. Many of these are small, but a slow leak under a sink can damage a new cabinet quickly.

Interior finish items

Doors that rub, windows that do not lock, cabinet doors out of alignment, and drywall damage left after final trades are common punch-list items. They rarely affect safety, but documenting them before closing keeps them on the builder’s list.

Radon in New Homes

Buyers sometimes assume a new home cannot have a radon problem. The EPA’s Citizen’s Guide to Radon says otherwise. It explains that new homes can be built with radon-resistant features and that EPA recommends building new homes with these features in high radon potential (Zone 1) areas. It also notes that building codes in some states or local areas may require these features, and suggests that anyone buying a new home ask the builder whether it has them.

Most importantly, the guide states that even if built radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon after occupancy. If results are 4 pCi/L or higher, the guide says the passive system should be activated by having a qualified mitigator install a vent fan. Installing radon-resistant features during construction makes it easier and less expensive to reduce levels further if the passive design alone is not enough.

For buyers, that means three practical steps: ask the builder whether radon-resistant features were installed, confirm where the vent pipe runs and whether a fan location was roughed in, and plan a radon test after moving in, ideally before the 11-month warranty inspection so results can inform that visit. Our guide to radon test cost outlines what testing typically involves.

Builder Access Policies and Scheduling

Builder policies on outside inspectors vary widely. Some welcome them at every stage. Others limit access to the final walkthrough, require scheduling through the superintendent, require proof of the inspector’s insurance, or restrict photography. A few production builders do not allow third-party inspections before closing at all. These policies are often written into the purchase agreement, so read it before signing, and ask the sales office directly which inspections are permitted and how to schedule them.

Practical tips that tend to help:

• Ask for the projected dates for foundation, framing and drywall as early as possible, and ask the superintendent to give notice before insulation goes in.
• Share inspection reports with the superintendent promptly and in writing, and keep a copy of every list sent.
• Request written confirmation of which items the builder will correct before closing and which will be handled under warranty.
• If the builder will not allow a pre-closing inspection, consider scheduling one immediately after closing and well before the warranty deadline.

Keep the tone cooperative. Superintendents manage many homes at once, and a clear, organized list with photos and locations is easier to act on than a long, unsorted report.

Getting the Most From Each Visit

New-construction inspections reward preparation. A few habits make each visit more useful for the buyer and easier for the builder to act on.

Before the visit

• Ask the builder for the plan set or at least the floor plan, so the inspector can compare what was built against what was intended at a general level.
• Confirm that utilities will be on for the final inspection. Water, gas and power are needed to operate fixtures, appliances and heating and cooling equipment.
• Ask whether the attic, crawl space and mechanical areas will be accessible, and whether any areas are off limits because work is still in progress.
• Make a list of options and upgrades in the purchase agreement, so the inspector can note whether they appear to have been installed.

During the visit

Attending is especially useful at the pre-drywall stage. Seeing where plumbing, wiring and blocking run before walls are closed helps with future projects such as mounting a television or adding shelving, and photos taken at this point become a permanent map of what is inside the walls. At the final stage, ask the inspector to show the main water shutoff, the gas shutoff, the electrical panel, the furnace filter location, and any sump pump or radon vent pipe.

After the visit

Reports for new homes can include dozens of small items. That is normal and does not mean the house is poorly built. Sort the findings into items that affect water management, safety or major systems, and items that are cosmetic or routine. Lead with the first group when talking to the builder, since those are the items with the most long-term consequence.

Working the Punch List With the Builder

An inspection report only helps if the findings are actually corrected. Builders typically handle corrections in one of three ways: fixing items before closing, scheduling them as warranty work after closing, or declining items they consider within normal tolerances or outside the contract. Clear communication improves the outcome in each case.

Send the report, or a condensed list drawn from it, to the superintendent in writing. Include the location, a short description, and a photo for each item. Ask for a written response that marks each item as will fix before closing, will fix under warranty, or not accepted, with a reason. Keep every version of the list, because the 11-month inspection is easier when there is a record of what was raised earlier.

Before closing, walk the house again to confirm that items marked as fixed were completed. For items moved to warranty, note the deadline and the claim process described in the builder’s warranty documents. When a builder declines an item the buyer considers significant, such as flashing, drainage or a safety device, a second opinion from a licensed contractor in that trade can help clarify whether a correction is needed.

Some items cannot be fully evaluated at closing. Air conditioning may not be tested in cold weather, and grading may not be final until landscaping is complete. Note these as open items and plan to check them before the warranty ends.

What New-Construction Inspections Cost

Pricing depends on the home’s size, the number of phases, travel and the add-ons chosen. Phase inspections are often priced individually, and some inspectors offer a package for pre-drywall, final and 11-month visits. Radon testing is usually separate. Our guide to new construction home inspection cost covers typical structures and what drives the price, and the broader new construction home inspection guide covers how buyers usually combine the phases.

When comparing inspectors, look beyond price. Ask whether the inspector has experience with new construction, whether reports separate builder-correctable items from maintenance notes, how photos are labeled for the superintendent, and how quickly reports arrive. A fast turnaround matters at the pre-drywall stage, when the builder may be ready to insulate within days.

Front Range Considerations

New subdivisions along the Colorado Front Range bring a few recurring planning points, though conditions vary by site. Some areas have expansive clay soils, so builders often rely on engineered foundations and specific drainage designs; settled backfill and grading changes during the first year are common items for the 11-month inspection. Colorado is widely considered a higher-radon area, which makes the EPA’s advice to test every new home after occupancy especially relevant. Hail and wind can damage new roofs and siding before or soon after closing, so note any visible damage at the final inspection. Our hiring process guide covers vetting inspectors, and the home inspection basics section explains how inspections fit into a purchase.

References

• A Citizen’s Guide to Radon (2016) — U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
• ASHI Standard of Practice for Home Inspections — American Society of Home Inspectors
• Schedule a Home Inspection — Consumer Financial Protection Bureau

Building on the Front Range and unsure which phases to book? Share your builder’s schedule with us, and we can help plan pre-drywall, final and warranty visits around it.