What to Check During a Home Inspection: 2026 Guide
Knowing what to check during a home inspection helps buyers prepare for the walkthrough and helps them understand what the inspector’s report does and does not cover. A standard inspection follows the InterNACHI or ASHI Standards of Practice and covers the major systems and components of the home in a visual, non-invasive examination. Buyers who attend the inspection get the most value when they understand the categories the inspector reviews, the limits of the inspection scope, and the ancillary services that may be worth adding for a specific property. This walkthrough covers the eight major categories most inspectors review plus the four ancillary scopes that frequently come up in Front Range transactions.
Roof, gutters, and attic
The roof is the most expensive single component most buyers will negotiate. Inspectors review the roof from the eaves, from a ladder on the roof surface where safe, and from inside the attic where structural rafters and decking are visible. Specific items checked include:
- Shingle condition, granule loss, curling, and visible hail damage
- Flashing at penetrations (chimneys, vents, skylights)
- Gutter condition, slope, and downspout discharge location
- Soffits, fascia, and visible roof edge details
- Attic insulation depth, distribution, and any moisture staining on decking
- Ventilation balance (intake vents at soffits, exhaust vents at ridge or gable)
- Visible rafters, trusses, and any sagging or damage
Front Range inspectors often note hail damage specifically because hailstorms are frequent on the Eastern Slope. A buyer should ask whether the visible roof damage is recent or aged because insurance claims have time limits.
Exterior, siding, windows, and grading
The exterior walk covers everything visible from ground level around the house. Inspectors document siding material and condition, window and door condition, exterior trim, and the grading and drainage near the foundation. Common findings include:
- Siding cracks, gaps, or improperly nailed panels
- Failed window seals (visible as fogging between glass panes)
- Caulk separation at trim, windows, and doors
- Improper grading where soil slopes toward the foundation rather than away
- Downspouts discharging too close to the foundation (less than four to six feet)
- Decks, porches, balconies, and exterior stair condition
- Driveway, walkway, and patio condition
Grading and drainage matter more than buyers expect. Negative grading (soil sloping toward the house) is one of the top causes of basement moisture intrusion. The fix is usually a few hundred dollars of regrading work or a downspout extension, but the consequence of ignoring it can be five-figure foundation damage over time.
Foundation and structural
Inspectors examine the foundation from inside the basement or crawlspace and from outside at the exposed grade. Items checked include:
- Foundation wall material (poured concrete, block, stone) and visible cracks
- Crack typology — hairline cracks are usually cosmetic, horizontal cracks suggest lateral pressure
- Bowing or movement in basement walls
- Sill plate condition and any anchor bolt visibility
- Floor joist condition, sagging, and span
- Sister joists, repairs, or signs of prior structural work
- Sump pump function and drainage discharge
- Crawlspace moisture barriers, insulation, and any standing water
Front Range homes often have expansive-clay-soil-related foundation movement. Inspectors note diagonal cracks at door corners and around windows because those are the first visible signs. A structural engineer referral is the right next step when the inspector finds significant cracking or movement.
Plumbing systems
Inspectors run water at every accessible fixture, flush every toilet, and check water pressure and drainage. Specific checks:
- Supply pipe material (copper, PEX, PVC, galvanized steel, polybutylene)
- Water heater age, capacity, condition, T&P valve, and venting
- Drain, waste, and vent (DWV) pipe material and visible joints
- Fixture function (faucets, showerheads, toilets, tub stoppers)
- Visible leaks at supply and drain connections
- Main water shutoff location and operation
- Hose bib function and frost-proof rating
- Sewer cleanout location and visible condition
Inspectors flag galvanized steel supply pipes and polybutylene supply pipes because both have well-documented failure modes. Galvanized pipes rust internally and reduce flow over decades. Polybutylene pipes were the subject of a class-action settlement and tend to fail at fittings. Buyers should consider a sewer scope (an ancillary service) for any home with mature trees or pre-1980 construction.
Electrical service and circuits
The electrical inspection covers the main service, the panel, and a representative sample of outlets and switches. Items checked:
- Service entrance cable, weatherhead, and meter base condition
- Service amperage rating (60A, 100A, 150A, 200A)
- Panel brand and any known defect history (Federal Pacific, Zinsco, Challenger panels are flagged)
- Breaker condition, double-tapping, and bonding
- Grounding electrode conductor and bonding
- GFCI protection at kitchen, bath, garage, exterior, and basement outlets
- AFCI protection where required by current code
- Representative sample of outlets tested with a three-prong tester
- Visible wiring methods, including any knob-and-tube or aluminum branch circuit wiring
Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels are one of the most consistently flagged defects in U.S. home inspections. Replacement runs $1,800 to $3,000 for a typical 200A service. Inspectors do not refuse to inspect Federal Pacific panels, but the report will recommend evaluation by a licensed electrician.
HVAC equipment
Inspectors run the furnace and air conditioner where outdoor temperatures allow safe operation. Specific checks:
- Furnace age, capacity, and visible flue venting
- Heat exchanger condition where visible
- Air conditioner age, refrigerant line condition, and condensate drainage
- Ductwork material, accessibility, and visible damage
- Air filter location and condition
- Thermostat operation
- Combustion appliance venting in shared mechanical spaces
Inspectors do not pull furnaces apart to inspect closed combustion chambers. A separate HVAC contractor evaluation is needed for that level of detail. Reasonable expectation: the inspector identifies obvious problems (rust, soot staining, age) and flags them for follow-up.
Interior, appliances, and attached structures
The interior walk covers walls, ceilings, floors, stairs, railings, doors, and windows. Built-in appliances (range, oven, dishwasher, microwave, garbage disposal) are operated through one cycle. Attached garages are checked for fire separation between the garage and living space, the garage door and opener function, and any visible defects.
- Stair rise and run consistency, railing height, and baluster spacing
- Window and door operation, weatherstripping, and locking hardware
- Floor levelness and any visible squeaks or movement
- Ceiling staining suggestive of past or current leaks
- Fireplace condition, damper operation, and visible flue (where accessible)
- Garage fire separation wall and self-closing door
- Built-in appliance function
Ancillary scopes worth adding
The base inspection scope excludes several items that buyers often want covered. The four most common ancillary services on the Front Range:
Radon testing
Colorado is in EPA Radon Zone 1 statewide. Testing costs $125 to $200 and takes 48 hours minimum. Detailed background is available in the parent guide to radon testing for Colorado homes.
Sewer scope
A borescope-based inspection of the main sewer lateral from the cleanout to the city main. Costs $175 to $300. Especially valuable for homes with mature trees or clay/Orangeburg pipe.
Termite and WDO inspection
A wood-destroying-organism inspection looks for termites, carpenter ants, dry rot, and similar damage. Required by some lenders for VA loans. Costs $75 to $150 when added to a regular inspection.
Mold air sampling
Air-cassette sampling with lab analysis confirms whether a visible moldy area is releasing spores at elevated levels. Costs $300 to $500 for two to four samples. Adds 48 to 72 hours for lab turnaround. The parent hiring guide covers when ancillary scopes are worth the extra fee.
How buyers should prioritize the report findings
A typical inspection report runs 30 to 60 pages and includes 50 to 150 individual findings. Buyers can feel overwhelmed by the volume. The inspector’s report usually categorizes findings into four tiers: safety hazards, major defects, minor defects, and maintenance items. Safety hazards (exposed wiring, gas leaks, missing handrails on stairs) need immediate attention. Major defects (active roof leaks, foundation movement, failed HVAC equipment) warrant negotiation. Minor defects and maintenance items are documented for the buyer’s awareness but do not normally drive repair requests.
A buyer’s agent helps translate the report into a repair request the seller will actually consider. Sellers tend to refuse blanket repair lists that include cosmetic items. A focused request covering three to five major findings has a higher acceptance rate than a 30-item list that mixes safety hazards with cabinet hinge alignment.
What to do with a long minor-defects list
The minor-defects list typically dwarfs the major-defects list. That is normal and not a sign of a bad house. Every home has dozens of small items the inspector flags simply because they are visible — a cracked outlet cover, a loose closet rod, a stuck cabinet drawer, a missing weatherstrip. Buyers should accept that the seller will not repair these items and instead use the list as a punch list for after closing. Most of the minor defects can be addressed by the new owner over the first six to twelve months.
Inspection-day expectations for the buyer
Buyers attending the inspection should plan for two to four hours on-site, dress for crawlspace dust and rooftop heat, bring a notebook, and arrive about an hour into the inspection. The inspector typically spends the first hour walking the roof and exterior alone, so buyer arrival mid-inspection saves time. The final walkthrough portion is the highest-value hour for the buyer because the inspector walks through findings room by room and answers questions in context.
Buyers should also bring questions about home maintenance the inspector can answer. Things like where the main water shutoff is, where the gas shutoff is, how to bleed the boiler, when to replace the furnace filter, and how often the gutters need cleaning. The inspector is paid to evaluate, not to teach, but most credentialed inspectors are happy to spend a few minutes orienting the buyer to the house’s systems.
Seasonal considerations for Front Range inspections
Inspections in Colorado get more challenging in winter. Outdoor temperatures below 65 degrees prevent inspectors from running air-conditioning equipment without risking damage to the compressor. Snow cover on the roof prevents proper roof surface examination. Frozen exterior hose bibs cannot be tested. Buyers under contract in January or February should ask the inspector to note which items could not be fully evaluated due to weather and to recommend a follow-up evaluation in spring.
Summer inspections come with their own constraints. Attic temperatures can exceed 130 degrees in July, which limits how long the inspector can safely spend in the space. Hailstorms in May, June, and July can damage roofs the day before or the day after the inspection, so buyers should request a re-roof check during the final walkthrough before closing if a major storm passed through. The inspection is a snapshot, not a continuous monitor; weather events between inspection and closing can change the roof’s condition substantially.
References
- InterNACHI Standards of Practice — International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
- ASHI Standard of Practice — American Society of Home Inspectors
- HUD Guidance on Home Inspections — U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development