Pre Purchase Inspection Checklist: Before, During, After

We may earn commission from links on this page. Lead-form submissions are forwarded to local inspector partners. How we research and review.

A home inspection only protects a buyer if it happens on time, covers the right systems, and leads to clear decisions before the contingency deadline passes. This pre purchase inspection checklist is organized by phase: what to do before the inspection, what to do on inspection day, and what to do after the report arrives. It explains what a standard inspection covers under the ASHI Standard of Practice, which add-on tests are worth considering, the questions to ask, how to read the report, how to get repair estimates, and how to negotiate. It also covers two Colorado Front Range factors, radon and expansive soils, that shape inspection plans in this region. Contract terms, lender rules and local practice vary, so treat this as a framework and confirm deadlines with your agent and your contract.

Part of our Home Inspections Explained guide — start there for the full picture →

Before the Inspection: Scheduling and Preparation

Most of the value of an inspection is decided before the inspector arrives. The checklist items in this phase are about time, scope and access.

Find the contingency deadline

Read the purchase contract and write down the inspection objection deadline, the resolution deadline and any lead-paint inspection window for a pre-1978 home. Colorado contracts typically set specific calendar dates for these steps, and missing one can mean losing the right to object or cancel. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau advises scheduling an inspection as soon as possible once a home is chosen, so there is time to resolve problems and to complete any additional inspections that turn up.

Choose an independent inspector

The CFPB recommends an independent inspector who is accountable to the buyer, noting that an inspector paid by someone else, or not paid until closing, might underemphasize problems. It also suggests asking for references and checking the inspector with the Better Business Bureau and any state or county licensing authority, since licensing rules vary by area. Our guide to the pre-purchase inspection explains what to look for in a sample report, and our hiring process guide covers credentials and insurance.

Confirm scope and add-ons at booking

Ask which standard the inspector follows and what the fee includes. Decide on add-ons at the same time so everything happens in one visit or within a few days. The most common add-ons for Front Range homes are radon testing, a sewer scope, and mold sampling when there is a specific reason for concern. Our home inspection basics section explains the general process, and our page on pre-purchase inspection cost covers typical pricing for the base inspection and common add-ons.

Arrange access

Ask the listing agent to confirm utilities will be on, pilot lights lit, and the attic hatch, crawl space, electrical panel, water heater and furnace reachable. Locked rooms, stored belongings in front of the panel, or a shut-off gas supply all lead to “not inspected” notes that weaken the report. For homes with private wells or septic systems, ask the seller for any past test results or pumping records.

Gather documents

Collect the seller’s property disclosure, any lead-based paint disclosure, HOA documents that describe who maintains roofs and exteriors in attached housing, and any permits for additions or finished basements. Reading the disclosure before the inspection gives the inspector specific items to look at closely.

What a Standard Inspection Covers

Many inspectors follow the ASHI Standard of Practice, which sets out the systems and components an inspector shall inspect and describe, along with what the inspector is not required to do. Knowing the scope helps a buyer spot gaps before they become surprises. Under the ASHI SoP, a standard inspection covers:

• Structural components: foundation and framing, with a description of how crawl spaces and attics were inspected.
• Exterior: wall coverings, flashing, trim, doors, decks, balconies, stairs, railings, and grading and drainage that may affect the building.
• Roofing: roofing materials, roof drainage systems, flashing, skylights, chimneys and roof penetrations.
• Plumbing: interior water supply and distribution, drain, waste and vent systems, water heating equipment, fuel storage and distribution, sewage ejectors and sump pumps.
• Electrical: service drop and service entrance, service equipment and main disconnects, grounding, panel interiors, conductors, overcurrent protection, a representative number of fixtures, switches and receptacles, and GFCI and AFCI devices.
• Heating and air conditioning: installed heating and cooling equipment, vent systems, flues and chimneys, and distribution systems.
• Interiors: walls, ceilings, floors, stairs and railings, a representative number of doors, windows and cabinets, garage doors and operators, and installed kitchen appliances.
• Insulation and ventilation: insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished spaces, attic and foundation-area ventilation, and kitchen, bath, laundry and dryer exhaust.
• Fireplaces and fuel-burning appliances: fireplaces, stoves, inserts, chimneys and vent systems.

The same standard lists what is outside a standard inspection. Inspectors are not required to inspect wells, well pumps, water quality, or septic and other sewage disposal systems. They are not required to report on molds and mold-like substances, or on environmental hazards including radioactive substances, which covers radon. Geological and soil conditions are also excluded, and inspections under the standard are not technically exhaustive. Those exclusions are exactly where add-on services come in.

Add-On Inspections Worth Considering

Radon testing

Radon is a colorless, odorless radioactive gas from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil and rock, and the only way to know the level in a specific house is to test. EPA’s Citizen’s Guide to Radon notes that buyers or sellers can hire a qualified tester during a sale, that buyers frequently want tests made by someone not involved in the transaction, and that buyers may want readings in areas the seller might not otherwise test, such as a basement they plan to finish. The guide also says that when a radon test is part of a real estate transaction, the results of two short-term tests can be used to decide whether to mitigate. Starting the test on or before inspection day leaves time for results within the contingency window.

Sewer scope

A sewer scope sends a camera down the main building drain to the city connection or septic tank. Standard inspections run water through fixtures, but they cannot see roots, offsets, sags or collapsed sections underground. Older Front Range neighborhoods with clay or cast iron lines are common candidates. Our guide to the sewer scope home inspection explains what the video shows and what repairs typically follow.

Mold assessment

Mold is outside the standard scope, but inspectors do report visible staining, moisture and conditions that support growth. Targeted sampling makes sense when there is a musty odor, past water damage, or visible growth that needs to be characterized. Our page on mold and radon testing explains when to combine the two and how sampling works.

Other specialists

Depending on the property, buyers may also want a well water test and flow evaluation, a septic inspection with pumping, a lead-based paint inspection on a pre-1978 home, a structural engineer for foundation movement, a chimney sweep’s camera inspection for wood-burning fireplaces, or a roofer’s opinion on a roof near the end of its life. FHA and VA buyers should know that some of these items may also appear as appraisal conditions; see our FHA home inspection checklist for how that overlap works.

During the Inspection: Attend and Ask Questions

The CFPB encourages buyers to attend the inspection if possible, noting that being present makes it easier to interpret the report, understand issues and ask questions. A typical single-family inspection takes several hours. Many buyers join for the last hour, when the inspector can walk through major findings in person.

On-site checklist

• Bring the seller’s disclosure and point the inspector to any items listed on it.
• Ask to see the electrical panel, main water shut-off, gas shut-off and furnace filter so you know where they are.
• Photograph serial plates on the furnace, air conditioner and water heater to help estimate their ages.
• Note any areas the inspector could not reach, such as a blocked crawl space or a snow-covered roof, and ask whether a return visit is possible.
• Stay out of the way during the technical portion, then ask questions at the end.

Questions to ask

• Which findings are safety issues, and which are maintenance or upgrades?
• Which items need a licensed specialist to evaluate further?
• Are there signs of past water entry, and where did they show up?
• How old do the roof, furnace, water heater and air conditioner appear to be, and how do they look for their age?
• Did anything suggest foundation movement or drainage problems?
• Was there anything you could not inspect, and why?
• When will the written report arrive?

Inspectors describe conditions; they do not pass or fail a house, and under the ASHI SoP they are not required to estimate repair costs or the remaining life of components. Expect frank answers about what was seen, and expect referrals for anything outside the inspector’s scope.

After the Inspection: Report, Estimates and Negotiation

Read the report by category

Reports often run dozens of pages with photos. Read the summary first, then sort every finding into three groups: safety and structural concerns, significant systems near failure, and routine maintenance. The first two groups drive negotiation; the third becomes the homeowner to-do list. Look for language such as “recommend evaluation by a licensed contractor,” which signals that the inspector saw a symptom but the cause and cost need a specialist. Our buyer’s home inspection checklist helps organize that sort.

Get repair estimates quickly

For any significant item, call contractors right away, since the contingency clock keeps running. Ask for written estimates that describe the scope, not just a total. When a specialist evaluation is recommended, schedule it immediately so the result is available before the objection deadline. Our guide to home inspection repair cost estimates explains how to gather and compare quotes. Buyers who need a second opinion on a disputed finding can read our page on third-party home inspection cost.

Decide and negotiate

The CFPB notes that buyers may be able to negotiate with the seller or cancel based on the inspection, and that the seller may or may not agree to pay depending on the contract and local market. With an inspection contingency, a buyer who is not satisfied with the results can generally cancel without penalty. Common requests include:

• Seller repairs completed by licensed contractors before closing, with receipts.
• A closing credit so the buyer can hire their own contractors after closing.
• A price reduction that reflects the cost of major items.
• Specific mitigation, such as installation of a radon system with a post-mitigation test.

Keep the request focused on safety, structural and major system items backed by estimates. Our guide to asking for a price reduction after a home inspection covers how to frame the request.

Verify before closing

Before the final walkthrough, ask for invoices and any permits for agreed repairs. Check that the work is complete, that systems run, and that no new issues have appeared. If a radon system was installed, ask for the post-installation test result. For new construction, plan ahead for an 11-month warranty inspection before the builder’s warranty period ends.

Pre Purchase Inspection Checklist Table

The table condenses the full process into one view that can be printed or shared with an agent.

Adjusting the Checklist by Property Type

The core checklist applies to every purchase, but a few items shift depending on the kind of home.

Condos and townhomes

In attached housing, the HOA often owns and maintains the roof, exterior walls, balconies and sometimes the main sewer line. Read the declarations and recent meeting minutes to learn which components belong to the unit owner and which belong to the association. The inspector will focus on the unit’s interior systems, but ask for observations on shared elements visible from the unit, such as water staining from an upstairs neighbor or a cracked common wall. Reserve studies and any planned special assessments matter as much as the inspection report for budgeting.

Older homes

Homes built several decades ago are more likely to have original sewer lines, older wiring methods, lead-based paint, and finishes added without permits. For a pre-1978 home, the seller should provide a lead disclosure and pamphlet, and buyers have a window to arrange a lead inspection if they choose. A sewer scope moves from optional to strongly recommended on most older properties, and a closer look at the electrical panel and branch wiring is worthwhile.

Newer and new-construction homes

New homes still have defects. Common findings include missing insulation in sections of the attic, grading that slopes toward the foundation, incomplete flashing, and loose or missing fixtures. Many buyers schedule a pre-drywall inspection while framing, plumbing and wiring are still visible, then a final inspection before closing. EPA’s Citizen’s Guide notes that even homes built with radon-resistant features should be tested after occupancy, and that a passive system can be activated with a vent fan if levels remain elevated.

Rural properties

Homes on private wells and septic systems need specialists for both, since the standard inspection does not cover them. Add a well water quality test, a flow test, and a septic inspection with pumping. Outbuildings other than garages and carports are also excluded from the standard scope, so ask separately if a barn or shop matters to the purchase.

Common Pre-Purchase Inspection Mistakes

• Waiting to book. Inspectors and specialists fill up during busy seasons. Scheduling late leaves no time for follow-up evaluations.
• Skipping add-ons to save money. Radon mitigation and sewer line repairs can each cost far more than the test that would have found the problem.
• Treating the report as pass or fail. Every house has findings. The goal is to understand which ones matter and what they cost.
• Sending a long, unfocused repair list. Sellers respond better to a short request tied to safety, structure and major systems, backed by estimates.
• Forgetting the final walkthrough. Agreed repairs are only useful if they were actually completed and documented.

Colorado Front Range Factors

Radon

Colorado is widely considered a high-radon state, and many Front Range homes test above EPA’s 4 pCi/L action level. EPA recommends testing all homes below the third floor, and its Citizen’s Guide notes that radon reduction systems work, with some able to reduce levels by up to 99 percent. For a buyer, radon is rarely a reason to walk away, but it is a common negotiation item. Testing during the inspection window, and asking for mitigation or a credit when results are elevated, is a routine part of a Colorado purchase.

Expansive soils

Some Front Range areas have bentonite-rich clay soils that swell with moisture and shrink as they dry. Seasonal movement can crack slabs and foundation walls, heave basement floors, and rack door frames. Signs an inspector may note include diagonal drywall cracks at door corners, doors that stick or will not latch, sloping floors, separation at window frames, and gaps between finished basement walls and the slab. Because the ASHI SoP excludes geological and soil conditions from a standard inspection, the inspector reports symptoms and recommends a structural engineer when the pattern suggests ongoing movement. Grading that slopes toward the house, short downspout extensions and irrigation near the foundation all make soil movement worse, so those exterior items deserve attention on the report.

Climate and season

Snow cover can prevent a roof walk in winter, and air conditioning cannot always be operated safely in cold weather. If a system could not be tested because of conditions, ask for a seller warranty, a holdback or a later evaluation as part of the agreement.

References

• Schedule a Home Inspection — Consumer Financial Protection Bureau
• ASHI Standard of Practice for Home Inspections — American Society of Home Inspectors
• A Citizen’s Guide to Radon (2016) — U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

Under contract on a Front Range home and racing the inspection deadline? Tell us the address and your objection date, and we can help coordinate the inspection, radon test and sewer scope in one visit.