Trex Decking Pricing: Composite Deck Cost Guide (2026)

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A new composite deck typically runs about $30 to $75 per square foot installed in 2026, national range, which puts a common 300-square-foot deck somewhere around $9,000 to $22,500 before stairs, railings upgrades and permits. The decking boards themselves are usually a smaller share of that number than people expect; framing, footings, railings and labor make up the rest. People searching for Trex decking pricing are usually comparing one well-known brand line against others, but board price alone does not tell you what a finished deck costs, and this guide does not quote any manufacturer’s prices. Brand names such as Trex, TimberTech, Fiberon or AZEK appear only as examples of the product categories. The goal is to help you understand the typical ranges, what moves a quote up or down, and how a home inspector looks at a composite deck on the Front Range.

Part of our Structure & Exterior guide — start there for the full picture →

If you are still deciding whether composite is right for you at all, start with our overview of composite decking, which covers how the boards are made and how they behave over time. This page focuses on money: what you should expect to pay, and whether the quote in your hand looks reasonable.

Typical Composite Deck Cost at a Glance

The table below shows typical national ranges for 2026. They are planning numbers, not prices from any specific manufacturer or contractor. Local labor rates, lumber pricing and the complexity of your yard can push a real quote outside these bands, so get local quotes before committing.

Composite, Capped Composite and PVC: What You Are Paying For

The word “composite” gets used for several different products, and the price tiers line up with how the board is built.

Uncapped (first-generation) composite

Early composite boards were a blend of wood fiber and plastic with no protective outer shell. They are less common now, though some budget lines still exist. Because the wood fiber is exposed at the surface, these boards can absorb water, grow mold or mildew on the surface and stain more easily. If you are buying a house with a 15- to 20-year-old composite deck, there is a good chance it is this type, and blotchy staining or surface mold is a common inspection note.

Capped composite

Most composite decking sold today is capped: a wood-plastic core wrapped on three or four sides with a harder polymer shell. The cap resists stains, fading and moisture far better than the older style. Within capped lines, manufacturers sell several tiers. Higher tiers usually have a thicker or harder cap, more realistic grain and color variation, better fade and stain warranties and sometimes a lighter-weight core. You are paying mostly for appearance and warranty coverage, not for a dramatically stronger board.

PVC (cellular vinyl) decking

PVC boards contain no wood fiber at all. They are lighter, highly resistant to moisture and mold and are often the choice around pools and hot tubs or on low decks where airflow under the boards is poor. They usually sit at the top of the price range. PVC can expand and contract more with temperature than some composites, so installers need to follow gapping instructions closely, and some lines feel more like plastic underfoot.

How this compares with wood

For context, a pressure-treated wood deck usually costs noticeably less up front, and cedar or other naturally durable woods tend to land between pressure-treated and composite. The trade is ongoing maintenance: wood needs cleaning and staining or sealing every few years, while composite generally needs only washing. Over 20 or more years, the gap in total cost narrows, especially if you would otherwise pay someone to restain. Our guide to how long a deck lasts compares typical service lives by material.

What Drives the Price of a Composite Deck

If two quotes for “a 300-square-foot composite deck” differ by thousands of dollars, the difference is almost always hidden in one of these factors.

Height and access

A deck a foot off the ground is the simplest build. Once a deck is high enough to need guards, taller posts, bracing and longer stair runs, labor and lumber climb fast. Second-story decks often need scaffolding or lifts, larger beams and more engineering attention. A tight side yard where crews must hand-carry everything adds labor hours too.

Framing and footings

Composite boards sit on a structural frame that is almost always pressure-treated lumber. Footings, posts, beams and joists are a large share of every quote. Composite boards often need joists spaced closer together than wood decking, especially for diagonal or herringbone patterns, which means more joists and more labor. Footings must go below frost depth; check your building department, but Front Range frost depths are commonly 30 to 36 inches, and deeper holes in rocky or clay soil take longer to dig.

Board tier, color and pattern

Premium colors, wide boards, picture-frame borders, inlays and diagonal layouts all increase both material waste and labor. A straight, single-color layout is the most economical way to get the look of composite.

Railings and stairs

Railings can rival the decking itself in cost. Basic composite or aluminum railing sits at the low end; cable and glass systems cost much more. Every stair adds stringers, treads, risers and usually a handrail. Guards and stair connections are also where decks most often fail, so this is not the place to cut corners.

Fasteners

Composite can be face-screwed with color-matched screws or installed with hidden clips that sit in grooves along the board edges. Hidden fasteners give a cleaner surface and are popular on capped boards, but they add material cost and installation time. Some board lines require their own clip system to keep the warranty valid.

Demolition, permits and site conditions

Tearing out and disposing of an old deck is often a separate line item. Permits and inspections add fees and scheduling time. Slopes, retaining walls, buried utilities and poor drainage under the deck can all add cost. Always call 811 before any digging for footings.

The Framing Lifespan Mismatch

This is the single most overlooked issue in composite deck pricing. Composite and PVC boards are often marketed with very long warranties. The pressure-treated frame underneath does not carry that warranty, and in many climates it may not last as long as the boards on top of it.

Pressure-treated lumber is treated with preservatives to resist fungal decay and insects. The EPA notes that chromated arsenical (CCA) treatment was the dominant residential treatment until manufacturers voluntarily canceled virtually all residential uses effective the end of 2003, and that newer residential preservatives have since replaced it. Modern treated lumber resists rot well, but the tops of joists, where water sits under deck boards and around fasteners, are still the most vulnerable spots.

That is why many builders now add joist tape or a similar membrane on top of joists and beams before installing composite boards. It typically adds a modest amount per square foot and can help the frame keep pace with the boards. Other ways to narrow the mismatch include:

• Using ground-contact rated lumber for posts, beams and any framing close to the soil.
• Keeping enough ventilation gap under low decks so the frame can dry.
• Using corrosion-resistant hangers and fasteners rated for treated lumber.
• Considering steel or aluminum framing on higher-budget projects, which costs more but is not subject to rot.

When you compare quotes, check whether framing protection is included. A low price that leaves joists bare is not really comparable to one that tapes every joist and beam.

Resurface or Rebuild? Repair vs Replace Logic

Many homeowners with a tired wood deck ask whether they can simply put composite boards on the existing frame. Sometimes yes. These rules of thumb help frame the decision, but they are rules of thumb, not engineering judgments.

• Frame age vs expected life. If the frame is more than about 15 to 20 years old, resurfacing with boards that may last 25 or more years can mean tearing the new boards off again to replace the frame. Many contractors will not resurface an old frame without a careful probe for rot.
• Joist spacing. Older wood decks were often framed at spacing that is too wide for composite boards. If the joists are too far apart, the new boards may sag or void the warranty, and adding joists eats into the savings.
• Ledger and footings. If the ledger is not properly flashed and bolted, or the footings are shallow, a new surface does not fix the risk underneath. Those items usually push the decision toward a rebuild.
• The 50 percent rule. A common contractor rule of thumb is that if the repairs needed to make the frame sound approach half the cost of a new frame, rebuilding usually makes more sense.

For smaller problems on an otherwise healthy deck, such as a few damaged boards or a loose railing post, see our guide to deck repair cost.

Ledger Attachment and Flashing: The Part You Cannot See

Whatever boards you choose, the most important safety detail on an attached deck is the ledger connection to the house. In an ASHI Reporter interview, former ASHI president Bruce Barker named flashing as the number one deck issue he sees, explaining that if the connection at the house is not properly flashed, water gets in and rots the wood, and fasteners in rotted wood will not hold. He added that decks most often fail at the ledger connection, the stair connection or the guard connections.

Composite boards can actually make this harder to spot later, because a tidy composite surface and fascia can hide a deteriorating rim joist. When you review a quote, look for specific language on ledger board attachment (through-bolts or structural screws at a stated pattern, not just nails) and on the flashing behind and over the ledger. If the plan is a freestanding deck that does not attach to the house, the quote should explain how it is braced.

Heat, Hail, UV and Fading on the Front Range

Colorado conditions affect composite decks in a few specific ways worth knowing before you choose a color or tier.

Surface heat

Composite and PVC boards can get very hot in direct sun, and darker colors get hotter. At altitude, strong sun makes this more noticeable. If your deck faces south or west with no shade, consider lighter colors, lines marketed for lower heat retention, or a shade structure. This is a comfort issue more than a safety defect, but it is a common regret among owners of dark decks.

Hail

Front Range hail can dent or mark many materials. Capped composite usually handles typical hail reasonably well, but large hailstones can leave surface marks, and some products show impact damage more than others. Check whether the warranty addresses hail and whether your homeowners insurance treats a deck as part of the dwelling or as another structure.

UV and fading

High-altitude UV is intense. All composite boards change color somewhat in the first months outdoors as they weather; capped products are designed to limit this, and fade warranties typically describe an acceptable amount of change. Older uncapped boards can fade unevenly. Replacing a few boards on an older deck often reveals a visible color mismatch because the new boards have not weathered yet.

Dry air, cold and thermal movement

Dry winters and big day-to-night temperature swings make expansion and contraction gaps important. Boards cut too tight in winter can buckle in summer; boards gapped too wide in summer leave large gaps in winter. Follow the manufacturer’s gapping chart for installation temperature.

Wildfire exposure

Many Front Range homes sit near grassland or forest. The U.S. Fire Administration notes that embers can smolder in flammable materials for hours before igniting areas such as a roof or a deck. If your home is in a wildfire-prone area, ask about boards with a fire-performance rating, keep the area under the deck clear of debris and stored items, and ask your local fire authority whether specific ignition-resistant requirements apply.

Maintenance Costs Over Time

A big part of the case for composite is lower upkeep, but it is not zero upkeep.

• Washing. Plan on washing the deck once or twice a year with a cleaner approved for composite. Pollen, leaves and dirt in the gaps can grow mildew on the surface even on capped boards. For product options, see our picks for the best deck cleaner.
• Pressure washing. Many manufacturers limit pressure and nozzle distance. Too much pressure can damage the cap and void the warranty.
• Snow removal. Plastic shovels are generally recommended. Metal edges can scratch the surface. Some deicing products are allowed and others are not; check the board maker’s care guide.
• Frame checks. Every few years, look under the deck for loose hangers, corroded fasteners, soft spots at the ledger and posts that have shifted with frost heave or expansive clay soils.

Compared with staining a wood deck every two to four years, the yearly cost of caring for composite is low. The real long-term cost risk is the frame, not the boards.

How to Read a Composite Deck Quote

Ask for two or three written quotes and compare them line by line. A complete quote usually includes:

• Deck dimensions, height and square footage.
• Board line, tier and color, plus fascia and trim boards.
• Fastener method (face screws or a named hidden-clip system).
• Framing lumber grade, joist size and spacing, beam size and footing size and depth.
• Joist protection tape or membrane, if included.
• Ledger attachment method and flashing details, or freestanding design.
• Railing type and total linear feet, plus number of stairs and handrails.
• Demolition and disposal of the old deck.
• Permit, plan drawings and inspection scheduling, and who pulls the permit.
• Payment schedule, timeline and warranty on labor (separate from the board warranty).

Red flags

• No permit. Most cities require permits for decks attached to the house or above a set height. A contractor who suggests skipping the permit is skipping the inspections that check footings and ledger attachment. Check with your city or county building department; our guide to the deck permit process explains what is usually reviewed.
• Vague framing language. “Build new frame” with no sizes or spacing makes quotes impossible to compare.
• Resurfacing an old frame without inspection. A quote that assumes the frame is fine without anyone probing it is a risk.
• Pressure tactics. “Today-only” discounts or large deposits before materials are ordered are reasons to slow down.
• Brand warranty confusion. Board warranties cover the boards. Ask what the installer warrants on workmanship and the frame.

Questions to ask

• Is the installer trained or certified by the board manufacturer, and does installation method affect the warranty?
• What joist spacing will you use for this board and pattern?
• How will the ledger be attached and flashed?
• How deep will the footings go, and what happens if you hit rock or wet clay?

How a Home Inspection Looks at a Composite Deck

The ASHI Standard of Practice lists attached and adjacent decks, balconies, stoops, steps, porches and their railings among the exterior items a home inspector inspects. A standard home inspection is visual and focuses on obvious significant deficiencies. On a composite deck, an inspector commonly looks at:

• Ledger attachment and any visible flashing at the house.
• Joists, beams, hangers and fasteners from below where accessible.
• Posts, footings and signs of settlement or frost movement.
• Guards, handrails and stairs, including loose or wobbly sections.
• Sagging boards that may point to wide joist spacing.
• Surface mold, staining, cracking or swelling on older uncapped boards.

ASHI also publishes a separate, more detailed residential deck inspection standard. It describes a fee-for-service deck inspection that covers flashing, ledger attachment, the floor system, posts and footings, bracing, guards and handrails and stairs in more depth than a standard home inspection does. If you are buying a home with a large or elevated deck, or you are considering resurfacing an older frame, that deeper review can be worth the cost before you spend thousands on new boards. A structural engineer is the right call when an inspector reports serious ledger, beam or footing concerns.

Planning a new composite deck or buying a home with one? Contact our team to schedule a Front Range inspection before you sign a quote.

References

• Why Deck Safety Should Be Top of Mind — American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI Reporter)
• Auxiliary Standard of Professional Practice for Residential Deck Inspections — American Society of Home Inspectors
• ASHI Standard of Practice for Home Inspections — American Society of Home Inspectors
• Overview of Wood Preservative Chemicals — U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
• Protecting Structures from Wildfire Embers and Fire Exposures — U.S. Fire Administration