Best Dishwashers (2026): How to Choose + ENERGY STAR Shortlist

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The best dishwasher for most homes is a 24-inch built-in model with a stainless steel tub, a soil sensor, a third rack if you load a lot of utensils, a noise rating that suits an open floor plan, and an ENERGY STAR label so it uses less water and electricity than the federal baseline. After that, the right choice depends on how you dry dishes, how loud the kitchen can be, and whether the plumbing and electrical under the counter are ready for a new machine. We don’t lab-test appliances. This guide explains how to choose, and it lists models drawn from ENERGY STAR’s certified product data so you can start your shopping with a verified efficiency figure rather than a marketing claim.

Part of our Plumbing & Water guide — start there for the full picture →

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Quick Decision Table: Which Type of Dishwasher Fits Your Kitchen?

Start with the format. Most American kitchens have a 24-inch opening between cabinets, and almost every mainstream model is built for that space. The other formats solve specific problems: a narrow galley kitchen, a condo with no room for a built-in, or a cook who wants two independent drawers. Price bands below are typical national ranges for the appliance alone in 2026; installation, haul-away and any plumbing or electrical upgrades are extra.

If you are replacing an existing machine, measure the opening (width, height under the counter, and depth to the back wall) before you browse. Height matters more than people expect: a tiled floor or a raised subfloor can steal the half inch that a new model needs.

What Actually Matters When Choosing a Dishwasher

Dishwasher spec sheets are long, but only a handful of numbers predict whether you will be happy with the machine five years from now. Here is how to read them.

Capacity and place settings

Capacity is listed in place settings, a standardized measure of dinner plate, bowl, glass, cup, saucer and flatware. ENERGY STAR classifies a “standard” dishwasher as one that holds at least 8 place settings plus 6 serving pieces; anything smaller is “compact.” Most full-size 24-inch models are rated for 12 to 16 place settings. A useful rule of thumb (and it is only a rule of thumb) is that a family of four that runs the machine once a day is comfortable at 14 or more, while a couple who runs it every other day can live happily with 12. Real-world capacity depends just as much on rack design: fold-down tines, an adjustable upper rack, and a third rack for flatware and utensils often matter more than a one-setting difference on paper.

Energy and water use

The two efficiency figures that matter are annual energy use in kilowatt-hours per year (kWh/yr) and water use in gallons per cycle. Both come from the Department of Energy test procedure, which assumes 215 cycles a year. The current ENERGY STAR criteria, effective July 19, 2023, cap standard-size dishwashers at 240 kWh/yr and 3.2 gallons per cycle. In the certified data, each model is also compared with a federal reference of 307 kWh/yr and 5.0 gallons per cycle, so even an ENERGY STAR model sitting at the 240 kWh/yr limit is meaningfully better than the minimum.

ENERGY STAR estimates that a standard-size certified dishwasher costs about $50 a year to run and saves roughly 5,800 gallons of water over its lifetime. It also points out that washing a full load in a new certified machine rather than by hand can cut utility bills by about $220 a year. In other words, the efficiency gap between dishwashers is now fairly small; the gap between a dishwasher and a running faucet is large.

The yellow EnergyGuide label on the door shows estimated yearly electricity use and cost. Use it to compare two models side by side, but remember that your actual cost depends on your electric rate and how hot your incoming water is.

Noise rating (dBA)

Manufacturers publish a sound rating in A-weighted decibels (dBA). There is no single federal test for this number, so treat it as a manufacturer claim and compare within a brand’s lineup rather than across brands. As a general guide, ratings in the high 30s to mid 40s are quiet enough that many owners cannot tell the machine is running from the next room, while ratings around 50 dBA and above are noticeable in an open kitchen. Because the decibel scale is logarithmic, a few points make a real difference. If the kitchen opens onto the family room, this is one spec worth paying for.

Drying method

The certified data lists several drying approaches: heated dry (an exposed or hidden element), condensation dry (moisture condenses on the cooler stainless tub walls), fan-assisted dry, mineral-based drying systems, and automatic door release, which pops the door open at the end of the cycle so steam escapes. Plastic containers are the usual complaint with non-heated systems. If you wash a lot of plastic, look for a model that combines door release or a fan with some form of heat, and use a rinse aid. Heated dry tends to use more energy, which is one reason the most efficient models lean on condensation and door-release designs.

Tub material, filters and soil sensors

Stainless steel tubs hold heat better than plastic, which helps condensation drying and tends to reduce odor and staining. Most modern machines use a manual filter at the bottom of the tub that should be removed and rinsed regularly; a self-cleaning grinder filter is quieter to maintain but can be louder in operation. A soil sensor measures how dirty the water is and adjusts the cycle length, which is part of how certified models hit their efficiency numbers. Nearly every model in the ENERGY STAR data now lists soil-sensing capability.

Controls, connectivity and features worth skipping

Hidden top controls look sleek, but you cannot see the remaining time unless the model projects a light on the floor or has a status light. Wi-Fi connectivity lets you start or monitor a cycle from a phone; in the certified data only a small minority of full-size models list connected capability, so it is not a standard feature yet. Bottle jets, steam pre-wash and specialty wash zones can help, but a well-designed rack and a good spray arm system do more for cleaning than any single named feature.

ENERGY STAR Dishwasher Shortlist (2026)

The table below is a starting shortlist, not a ranking of which dishwasher is best overall. We filtered ENERGY STAR’s certified residential dishwasher list to standard-size models sold in the United States with a 23- to 24.5-inch width (so 18-inch units are excluded), sorted by annual energy use from lowest to highest, and kept a maximum of two models per brand so the list covers a range of manufacturers. It ranks efficiency only. It says nothing about reliability, cleaning performance, noise or repair costs, which you should research separately through owner reviews and the manufacturer’s warranty terms.

In that filtered set there were 559 full-size certified models, and 82 of them also met ENERGY STAR’s “Most Efficient” criteria. Most certified models sit right at the 240 kWh/yr and 3.2-gallon limits; the models below beat those limits.

A few notes on reading the table:

• Asterisks are wildcards. Manufacturers certify a model family, and the asterisks stand in for characters that change with color, finish or a minor variant. The exact model on a retailer’s page should match the pattern.
• Some models are certified more than once. A handful of model numbers in the ENERGY STAR data appear with two different energy figures (for example, an older and a newer certification). We left those out of the shortlist to avoid presenting an ambiguous number. If you are looking at one, check the product finder for the current listing.
• Efficiency differences are modest. The gap between 202 and 240 kWh/yr is under 40 kWh a year. At typical residential rates that is a small number of dollars annually, so do not pay a large premium for efficiency alone. Use it as a tiebreaker between machines you already like.
• Brands not listed are not “worse.” Retailers carry certified models from brands such as Whirlpool, KitchenAid, GE, Frigidaire, Kenmore and many others. Most sit at the 240 kWh/yr limit, which still meets ENERGY STAR.

How to narrow from shortlist to purchase

Pick two or three candidates that fit your opening and budget, then compare them on the things the efficiency data cannot tell you. Download each installation manual and confirm the electrical connection type, the drain hose length and whether an installation kit is included. Look at the warranty: most cover one year of parts and labor, with longer coverage on the tub, racks or electronic controls for some brands. Check where local service technicians are located, since a premium import that needs a factory-authorized technician can mean long waits in smaller Front Range towns. Finally, read the owner manual’s loading diagrams; a rack layout that suits tall stockpots or wide platters is the feature you will notice every single day.

To check any model, search its number on ENERGY STAR’s dishwasher product finder. If it is not there, it is not currently certified, even if an older box or listing carries the logo.

Installation and Home-Inspection Checklist

A dishwasher sits in a cabinet next to the sink, connected to hot water, a drain and power. Most problems home inspectors find are not with the machine itself but with how it was hooked up. Under the ASHI Standard of Practice, an inspector operates installed dishwashing machines with their normal controls to see that the primary function works, but is not required to evaluate every cycle and feature. That means a dishwasher can “pass” an inspection and still have a slow leak or a drain detail that will cause trouble later. Use this list whether you are installing a new machine or buying a home with one already in place. Our full dishwasher installation guide walks through the steps in more detail.

Drain: high loop or air gap

The drain hose must be routed so dirty sink water cannot siphon back into the dishwasher. That is done with a high loop (the hose fastened up under the countertop before it drops to the disposal or tailpiece) or with a countertop air gap, which some local codes require. A drain hose lying flat on the cabinet floor is a common inspection finding. Read our explainer on the dishwasher air gap to see which setup your jurisdiction expects. If you have a disposal, confirm that the knockout plug inside the disposal inlet was removed; forgetting it is a classic reason a new dishwasher will not drain.

Water supply

• A dedicated shutoff valve under the sink for the dishwasher line, accessible without pulling the machine out.
• A braided stainless supply line or copper tubing, not an old rubber hose. Replace the supply line when you replace the machine.
• Correct fitting at the dishwasher inlet (usually a 90-degree elbow) wrapped or sealed per the manual.
• Check hot water temperature at the kitchen tap. Many machines heat water internally, but very cool incoming water lengthens cycles.

Homeowners who worry about slow leaks under a cabinet often add a leak sensor or an automatic water shut-off valve. The EPA’s mold guidance notes that if wet materials are dried within 24 to 48 hours of a leak, mold usually will not grow, so a quick alert can prevent a much larger repair.

Electrical

Dishwashers typically need a 120-volt circuit, and many manufacturers and local codes call for a dedicated one. Some models connect with a plug to a receptacle under the sink; others are wired directly into a junction box on the machine. If you are swapping a plug-in model for a hardwired one (or the reverse), plan for that difference. Our guide to the hardwired dishwasher covers the wiring options. Current electrical codes in many areas also require GFCI protection for dishwasher outlets or circuits, so ask your electrician what your city or county has adopted.

Mounting and leveling

• Mounting brackets secured to the underside of the countertop or the side cabinets. A loose dishwasher tips forward when the door is opened with a loaded rack.
• Level front to back and side to side, so the door closes evenly and water does not pool at one corner.
• No visible water stains or swollen particleboard on the adjoining cabinet or the subfloor in front of the toe-kick.

Colorado and Front Range considerations

Much of the Front Range has moderately hard water, which leaves spots and film on glassware and builds scale on heating elements. Rinse aid and a periodic cleaning cycle help. A product from our dishwasher cleaner roundup once a month is a simple maintenance habit. Homes in older Denver neighborhoods may also have original galvanized or undersized drain lines under the sink, which can slow drainage once a higher-flow modern pump is attached.

Lifespan and replacement timing

A dishwasher is one of the shorter-lived major appliances. Our guide to how long a dishwasher lasts covers typical service life and the warning signs that a repair is no longer worth it. If you are buying a home and the dishwasher is near the end of its expected life, factor replacement into your budget rather than expecting the seller to cover it.

Where to Buy a Dishwasher

Major retailers usually offer delivery, haul-away of the old unit and basic installation as a bundle. Read what “basic” includes: a new supply line, drain hose and power cord are often extra, and many installers will not touch a hardwired connection or modify cabinets. Open-box and scratch-and-dent models can save real money on a machine that will be hidden behind a panel anyway. Before you buy, search the model on CPSC’s recall list, and check the ENERGY STAR rebate finder and your electric or water utility for current rebates.

Shopping for a full kitchen? Our sibling guides cover the best refrigerator and the best induction range with the same approach.

References

• ENERGY STAR Dishwashers: Buying Guidance and Savings — ENERGY STAR (U.S. EPA)
• Dishwashers Key Product Criteria — ENERGY STAR (U.S. EPA)
• ENERGY STAR Certified Residential Dishwashers (data set) — ENERGY STAR
• A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home — U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
• ASHI Standard of Practice for Home Inspection — American Society of Home Inspectors
• Recalls and Product Safety Warnings — U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission