Storm Door Installation: Types, Fit and Costs

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A storm door is a second, lighter door mounted on the outside of the main entry door. It adds a layer between the weather and the house, lets in a breeze through a screen on mild days and takes some of the sun, hail and wind abuse that would otherwise land on the primary door. On the Colorado Front Range, where a single week can bring a chinook windstorm, a spring hailstorm and intense high-altitude sun, a well-chosen and well-installed storm door can be a practical upgrade. A poorly chosen one can trap heat against the entry door or get torn off its hinges by the first big gust. This guide walks through storm door installation from start to finish: why homeowners add them, the main types, how to measure, what the installation involves, how to set closers and wind chains for Front Range wind, and what the job typically costs. All prices are general industry estimates, not quotes.

Part of our Structure & Exterior guide — start there for the full picture →

What Storm Door Installation Involves and What It Costs

Most residential storm doors are sold as kits that fit standard entry openings, usually 32 or 36 inches wide and about 80 or 81 inches tall. Installation means fitting a Z-bar or hinge rail to one side of the existing exterior door trim (the brick molding), hanging the door, adding a drip cap across the top, fitting an expander along the bottom to close the gap at the sill, and mounting the handle, lockset, closer and any wind chain. On a square, sound opening, an experienced installer can often finish in two to four hours. Out-of-square openings, rotted trim or unusual sizes add time.

As rough guidance, many homeowners see costs in these ranges:

• Basic aluminum storm door, off the shelf: often about $150 to $350 for the door alone.
• Mid-range full-view or retractable-screen door: often about $300 to $600 for the door.
• Premium or security storm door: often about $500 to $1,200 or more, especially for heavy steel security frames or custom sizes.
• Professional installation labor: commonly about $150 to $400 for a standard opening, more when trim must be repaired, the opening must be shimmed or built out, or the door is a custom order.

Put together, an installed storm door commonly lands somewhere between roughly $350 and $1,500, with security doors and custom sizes sometimes running higher. Ask each quote to separate the door, labor, trim repair and haul-away of any old storm door so the numbers can be compared line by line.

Why Add a Storm Door?

The reasons vary from house to house, and they are worth thinking through before buying, because they point to different door types.

Weather protection for the entry door

A storm door shields the primary door from rain, snow, hail and ultraviolet light. Wood entry doors in particular can lose their finish quickly on an exposed elevation, and a storm door can extend the time between refinishing jobs. It also keeps blowing snow from packing against the threshold of the main door.

Ventilation without bugs

A screened storm door lets homeowners leave the main door open on cool evenings, which many Front Range households do in spring and fall to pull in night air. Ventilating models with a sliding glass panel or a retractable screen make it easy to switch between glass in winter and screen in summer.

Modest comfort and draft improvements

A storm door creates a pocket of still air in front of the entry door, which can reduce drafts from an older or poorly sealed door. It is not a substitute for proper weather stripping, though. ENERGY STAR lists installing weather stripping on doors among the simple fixes in its seal-and-insulate guidance, and that step on the primary door usually comes first. If a home has broad air leakage problems, a blower door test can show where the bigger leaks are before money goes into door add-ons. ENERGY STAR certifies entry doors on U-factor and, where applicable, solar heat gain coefficient based on how much glass they have, so a tight, efficient primary door may do more for comfort than a storm door alone.

Security and curb appeal

A storm door with a keyed lock adds a second barrier, and heavy-gauge security doors are designed specifically to resist forced entry.

A Colorado Caution: Heat Buildup Behind Full-Glass Storm Doors

One issue gets overlooked more than any other. When a full-glass storm door sits in front of an entry door that faces south or west, the space between the two doors can heat up considerably on sunny afternoons. Colorado’s high elevation and frequent clear skies make strong sun exposure common along the Front Range.

That trapped heat can, in some cases, cause trouble for the entry door behind it. Vinyl components and some composite trim can warp or soften. Painted or stained finishes on wood and fiberglass doors can blister, fade or crack faster. Some dark-colored steel and fiberglass door manufacturers warn about heat buildup behind storm doors, and some limit or void their warranty when a full-glass storm door is installed over certain door styles or colors. The specifics vary by manufacturer and product line, so the safest step is to read the entry door’s warranty and installation instructions before buying a storm door.

Ways homeowners reduce the risk include:

• Choosing a ventilating storm door with a screen panel that can be opened in summer.
• Selecting a storm door with low-E glass, which some manufacturers offer to reduce solar heat gain.
• Swapping the glass panel for the screen panel during the hottest months on interchangeable models.
• Picking a lighter-colored entry door, or skipping a full-glass storm door entirely on a dark door that faces the afternoon sun.

North- and east-facing doors are generally at lower risk, but shading, roof overhangs and reflected light from nearby surfaces can all change the picture.

Types of Storm Doors

Storm doors fall into a handful of broad categories. Many brands offer several within each line.

Full-view doors

Full-view doors have a single large glass panel from top to bottom. They show off the entry door and let in the most light. Most come with an interchangeable screen panel that has to be swapped seasonally, which some owners find tedious. They are also the type most associated with the heat buildup concern above.

Ventilating (mid-view or high-view) doors

Ventilating doors have a glass panel that slides up or down to expose a screen, usually on the upper half or the top two-thirds. They are convenient for quick airflow changes and are a common compromise on sunny exposures. The lower portion is often a solid kick panel that resists damage from pets, boots and grocery bags.

Retractable-screen doors

These have a screen that rolls up into a cassette at the top of the door when the glass is closed and pulls down when the glass slides open. There is no separate screen panel to store. The trade-off is a more complex mechanism with more parts that can wear, and the screen fabric may eventually need replacement.

Security storm doors

Security doors use heavier steel frames, welded corners, reinforced hinges and often a multi-point or deadbolt lock. Many have decorative steel grilles over the glass or screen. They cost more and weigh more, which means the trim and framing they mount to need to be in good condition. For a security door to perform as intended, the hinge side has to anchor into solid material, not soft or split trim.

Frame materials

Aluminum is the most common material: light, rust-resistant and affordable. Wood-core doors with aluminum or vinyl cladding feel more solid and insulate a little better. Vinyl doors are less common and can be sensitive to heat. Steel is mostly found on security models.

Measuring the Opening and Getting the Right Fit

Most failed DIY storm door installations trace back to the measuring step or to an opening that is not as square as it looks. Before buying, homeowners or installers usually check:

• Width: measure between the inside edges of the brick molding at the top, middle and bottom. Use the smallest measurement. Standard storm doors cover a range, so a 36-inch door may fit openings of roughly 35.5 to 36.5 inches, but the exact range depends on the manufacturer.
• Height: measure from the sill to the underside of the top brick molding on both sides.
• Square: compare the two diagonal measurements. If they differ by more than a small amount, the door may need shimming or a filler strip to hang and latch properly.
• Mounting surface: the storm door attaches to the face of the trim, so there needs to be a flat, sound surface at least about an inch wide on the hinge side and latch side.
• Hinge side and swing: most kits can be set up left- or right-hinged. Choose the side that will not block a light switch, mailbox or railing and that opens away from the prevailing wind where possible.
• Clearance: make sure the storm door handle will not collide with the primary door handle or a deadbolt when both are closed. Some kits include offset handles or spacers for this.

Rotted or soft brick molding is a common surprise. Fasteners will not hold in decayed wood, and a storm door hung on weak trim may sag or pull loose in the wind. If the probe test on the trim finds softness, the rot should be addressed first. Our guide to wood rot repair covers epoxy, patching and replacement options.

Installation Steps: An Overview

Every manufacturer’s instructions differ, and those instructions should be followed for warranty purposes. The general sequence looks something like this:

1. Prepare the opening. Remove any old storm door, scrape loose caulk, set any loose trim nails and confirm the brick molding is flat and sound.
2. Install the drip cap. A short metal or vinyl cap goes across the top of the opening to shed water away from the door’s top edge.
3. Cut and fit the hinge rail (Z-bar). The hinge-side rail is often trimmed to length based on the opening height, then fastened to the door.
4. Hang the door. With the door in the opening and shimmed as needed, the hinge rail is screwed into the brick molding, starting at the top.
5. Install the latch-side rail. This rail is set so the door closes with an even gap and the latch lines up.
6. Fit the bottom expander. The expander slides down to meet the sill, sealing the bottom gap. It is cut or adjusted to follow any slope.
7. Mount hardware. Handle, lockset, strike, closer and wind chain go on last.
8. Seal selectively. Some manufacturers call for caulk along the top and sides of the mounting rails, but the bottom is often left open or has weep holes so any water that gets behind the storm door can drain out.

A two-person crew makes hanging easier, especially with heavier wood-core or steel security doors. Pre-1978 homes add a wrinkle: drilling or sanding old painted trim can disturb lead-based paint. EPA’s Renovation, Repair and Painting program notes that old paint on friction surfaces like doors can produce hazardous chips and dust, and that paid contractors working on painted surfaces in pre-1978 homes generally must be certified in lead-safe practices.

Closers and Wind Chains for Front Range Wind

Hardware matters more in Colorado than in many places. Downslope winds along the foothills can gust hard enough to rip an unsecured storm door open, bend the frame, snap the closer or tear hinges out of the trim.

Pneumatic and hydraulic closers

Most storm doors use one or two pneumatic closer cylinders. Two closers (top and bottom) are common on heavier doors and help control the door in wind. The adjustment screw at the end of the cylinder sets the closing speed: too fast and the door slams; too slow and it may not latch. Many closers have a hold-open washer to prop the door during deliveries. Cold weather can slow pneumatic closers, so a seasonal adjustment is normal.

Wind chains and stop devices

A wind chain or wind stop limits how far the door can swing, so a gust does not slam it into the house wall or bend it past its hinges. Many kits include a chain with a spring; some premium doors have integrated wind-protection closers. For homes in especially windy spots, such as the foothills west of Boulder, Golden and Fort Collins, a heavier aftermarket chain or a second closer is a modest add-on.

Hinge-side anchoring

Even good hardware fails if the hinge rail is screwed only into thin, brittle trim. Some installers add longer screws that reach into the framing, or install a backing strip, when a door faces the prevailing wind.

Common Problems Inspectors and Owners Notice

Storm doors usually get a quick look during a home inspection, but they are not a primary focus. The ASHI Standard of Practice lists exterior doors among the items inspectors examine, while screening, shutters, awnings and similar seasonal accessories are among the things an inspector is not required to inspect, so how much attention a storm door receives can vary by inspector. Issues that tend to show up include:

• Doors that do not latch because the closer is out of adjustment or the frame has racked.
• Bent frames and kinked hinges from wind damage.
• Missing or broken wind chains.
• Torn screens or cracked glass panels.
• Sagging doors hung on soft or rotted brick molding.
• Blistered or faded finish on the entry door behind a full-glass storm door.
• Water trapped against the main door’s threshold because the bottom of the storm door was sealed tight.

When those issues point to a worn-out entry door rather than just the storm door, it may make sense to price both together. Our exterior door replacement cost guide breaks down steel, fiberglass and wood options, and the sliding glass door replacement cost guide covers patio openings where storm doors are rarely used.

DIY or Hire a Pro?

Storm door installation is one of the more approachable DIY door projects. A homeowner with a drill, level, hacksaw for the rails, tape measure and a helper can often complete a standard kit in an afternoon. The jobs that tend to go wrong are the ones with out-of-square openings, damaged trim, non-standard sizes or heavy security doors.

Hiring a pro also makes sense when the entry door is under warranty and its manufacturer sets specific storm door conditions.

Buyers who want a broader view of a home’s doors, windows and exterior before closing can read the guide to hiring a home inspector, which explains what a general inspection covers and what is typically excluded.

References

• Residential Windows, Doors and Skylights — ENERGY STAR
• Seal and Insulate with ENERGY STAR — ENERGY STAR
• ASHI Standard of Practice for Home Inspection — American Society of Home Inspectors
• Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Program — U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

Not sure whether a storm door or a new entry door is the better fix for a drafty, sun-beaten front entry? Send us a note and we can point you to a local inspector who can look at the door, trim and threshold first.