What Will a Home Inspector Look For: A Buyer Prep Guide
Buyers under contract on a home commonly want to know what the inspector will check before the inspection date arrives. Knowing what to expect helps buyers prepare the property for access (clearing the attic hatch, moving items away from the panel and water heater) and helps them frame the right questions during the post-inspection walkthrough. This guide covers what a home inspector will look for, organized as a buyer-prep checklist that mirrors the inspector’s site sequence. The inspector follows the ASHI Standard of Practice or the InterNACHI Residential Standards of Practice; this guide tracks both.
What the inspector will check first
The inspector will start with the exterior walkaround before opening the door. This first pass forms a baseline impression: roof condition from grade, exterior cladding and trim condition, window and door condition from outside, grading around the foundation, deck and porch attachment to the house, walkways and driveways, and any visible drainage issues. The walkaround typically takes 30-45 minutes for a typical single-family home.
Buyers preparing for inspection should ensure the exterior is accessible. The inspector will walk the entire perimeter, which means temporary obstacles (parked vehicles immediately against the house, locked side gates, dense landscaping that blocks the foundation) should be cleared. Sellers usually handle this prep; buyers should confirm with their agent that the listing agent has communicated the inspection time and access needs.
Roof inspection: what will happen
The inspector will walk the roof when conditions permit. “Conditions permit” means dry surface, pitch under approximately 8/12, and ambient temperature high enough that shingles are not brittle. When walking is not safe, the inspector will use one of three alternatives: ladder eaves inspection with binoculars for higher slopes, drone photography for the roof field, or grade-level inspection with high-magnification binoculars.
The inspector will document covering material condition, flashing condition around penetrations and at wall intersections, gutter and downspout condition, attic ventilation features, and any visible repair work. The inspector will not predict a specific remaining-life year but will frame condition in service-life terms (early service life, mid service life, near end of useful life). Buyers can expect roof comments in the report regardless of condition, since this is the most weather-exposed building component.
Attic and structure: what the inspector will document
The inspector will access the attic through the standard hatch and walk on framing or installed catwalks. The attic inspection covers framing condition, insulation type and depth, ventilation effectiveness (intake-to-exhaust balance), visible electrical wiring, plumbing vents that pass through the attic, and any signs of water intrusion (staining on rafters or sheathing, mold growth, water marks on insulation).
Buyers preparing for inspection should ensure the attic hatch is accessible. If the hatch is in a closet, the closet should be empty enough to allow a ladder under the opening. If access has been blocked by stored items, the inspector will note “attic not inspected” in the report — which leaves the largest blind spot in the entire inspection scope.
Structural framing visible in the attic and in unfinished basements or crawlspaces will be inspected for sagging, deflection, prior repair work, insect or rodent damage, and water-driven deterioration. The inspector will not open finished wall cavities or remove fixtures to inspect framing behind them — the structural inspection is limited to what is visible without destructive access.
Foundation and basement: what to expect
The inspector will inspect the foundation from the basement, crawlspace, or accessible perimeter. Concrete or block foundation walls will be visually examined for cracks, water staining, efflorescence, prior repair work, and movement evidence. The inspector will categorize cracks by type (shrinkage, settlement, or structural) and document the severity.
Front Range homes commonly have foundation findings driven by expansive bentonite and claystone soils. Diagonal cracks at corner openings, sticking doors, and uneven floors are typical patterns. The inspector will document the pattern and recommend a structural engineer if the findings suggest material movement. Buyers in newer Front Range homes (post-2000) should still expect some foundation comments — the soil conditions affect every property in the metro area regardless of build year. For broader context on the credentialing pathway and how foundation findings get escalated, see our guide to hiring a home inspector on the Front Range.
Plumbing system: what the inspector will check
The inspector will identify supply pipe material (copper, galvanized steel, PEX, polybutylene), drain pipe material (cast iron, PVC, ABS, copper), water heater specifications and age, fixture operation, and visible signs of leakage or prior repairs. Each fixture will be operated for functional flow and drainage. Sinks, tubs, showers, and toilets all get a brief operational test.
Buyers should know that the inspector will not run a sewer scope as part of the standard inspection. Sewer scope is a separate service ($150-250) recommended when the home is pre-1980, has mature trees nearby, or shows drain-flow issues during the inspection. Buyers in older homes should add the sewer scope to the inspection package proactively rather than waiting for the inspector’s recommendation.
Polybutylene supply piping is a flagged finding regardless of current condition. The material was installed widely from 1978-1995 and has a documented failure mode that drives full-house repipe recommendations. The inspector will identify polybutylene by its gray color and crimped fitting style and will recommend evaluation by a master plumber for replacement scoping.
Electrical system: what the inspector will document
The inspector will open the main service panel cover (with appropriate PPE) to inspect the panel interior. The inspection covers panel manufacturer and model (with attention to known problematic brands like Federal-Pacific Stab-Lok or Zinsco), main breaker rating, branch circuit breaker condition, wire material and gauge, and visible workmanship issues.
The inspector will test a representative sample of receptacles for correct polarity, ground continuity, and GFCI protection in wet-area locations (kitchens, bathrooms, garages, exterior). Switches will be operated in finished areas. The inspector will not test every receptacle in the house — that is outside scope. Buyers who want comprehensive receptacle testing can request a licensed electrician for an electrical-only inspection.
Aluminum branch wiring (common in homes built 1965-1973) is a flagged finding. The inspector will note presence and recommend electrician evaluation for mitigation options. Knob-and-tube wiring (common in homes built pre-1950) is also flagged with recommendation for remediation scoping by a licensed electrician.
HVAC: what the inspector will test
The inspector will run the heating system in heating mode and the cooling system in cooling mode when outdoor conditions allow. Cooling system testing typically requires outdoor temperature above 65°F to avoid compressor damage; below that threshold, the inspector will document visible condition but skip the operational test.
The inspector will document equipment age (from manufacturer date codes), capacity, fuel type, and visible condition. Heat exchanger inspection on gas furnaces is limited to visible portions accessible without removing inspection panels. Full heat-exchanger evaluation is outside scope and requires an HVAC contractor.
Ductwork inspection covers visible portions in unfinished areas (basements, mechanical rooms, attics). Concealed ductwork inside finished walls is not inspected directly. The inspector may note temperature differentials at supply registers as a functional check, but full duct testing requires specialized equipment outside the standard scope.
Interior and appliances: what to expect
Interior inspection covers walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows from inside, stairs and railings, and operable mechanical features. The inspector will document visible water staining, moisture damage, structural cracks visible from inside, and any safety concerns (railings, stair conditions, smoke alarm and CO detector placement).
Built-in appliances (dishwasher, range, oven, microwave, garbage disposal, built-in refrigerator) will get a single operational cycle test. The dishwasher runs through a brief cycle; the oven heats and the range burners are lit; the disposal operates. Full diagnostic testing of any appliance is outside scope.
Smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors will be checked for presence, location, and (when accessible) function. The inspector will note missing detectors and any expired units that need replacement.
Specialty items the inspector will recommend separately
The inspector will recommend specialty follow-ups based on what the standard inspection surfaces. Common recommendations include sewer scope for older homes, radon testing for any home in known high-radon areas (Front Range Colorado qualifies), lead inspection for pre-1978 homes with deteriorated paint, mold air sampling for homes with visible moisture or musty odors, and structural engineering for foundation movement or framing concerns.
Each recommendation is a separate service from a different professional. Buyers should plan for the possibility of 2-3 specialty add-ons in addition to the base home inspection, with total inspection package costs commonly running $700-1,200 in Front Range markets when the full due-diligence pass is needed.
How to prepare the property for inspection day
Buyers should coordinate with their agent and the listing agent to ensure access on inspection day. Specific items the inspector will need access to include the attic hatch (clear closet floor space below; verify the hatch is operable), the main electrical panel (clear at least three feet of working space in front of the panel), the water heater and furnace (clear stored items from the mechanical room), the crawlspace hatch if applicable (verify access door is operable and crawlspace is dry enough to enter), and every interior room.
Pets should be confined or removed for the inspection. Inspectors will not refuse to work if a dog is on premises, but pets create access friction and slow the inspection down. Sellers should turn on all utilities; an inspection cannot fully test systems with the water or electricity shut off, and a “no water during inspection” condition leaves a large blind spot in the resulting report.
Sellers will sometimes try to preempt the inspection by performing minor repairs in the days before. This is acceptable for legitimate maintenance items but problematic when sellers attempt to disguise condition issues. Buyers and their agents should compare the inspection-day condition against the seller’s property disclosure form to flag any inconsistencies.
What the inspector will not look for
Excluded items include destructive testing (no holes in walls, no removal of fixtures), code-compliance auditing (the inspection documents condition against the inspector’s standard of practice, not against current building code), environmental sampling unless contracted as add-ons, cosmetic-preference opinions, and any judgment about whether the property is “worth” the purchase price. The inspector observes and documents; the buyer decides.
Buyers preparing for inspection should set realistic expectations. The inspection will surface findings on most homes — even new construction. The report’s value is in the prioritization and the photo documentation, not in delivering a flawless pass or fail. Most reports include 20-50 findings; the buyer’s job is to separate safety and major items from maintenance items for the inspection-objection conversation.
How the inspection feeds the contract objection process
The inspector will deliver the report within 24-48 hours of the inspection. Buyers and their agent will then draft an inspection-objection letter that flags specific findings the buyer wants the seller to address. The objection letter typically requests repairs, a price reduction, a closing credit, or some combination. Sellers can accept the objection, counter, or reject; rejection means the buyer can terminate the contract under the inspection-objection provision.
The inspector’s report is the documentation that backs the objection letter, so the report quality matters for negotiation leverage. A report with photos, clear standards-of-practice references, and prioritized findings gives the buyer leverage; a thin report with vague language gives the seller room to dismiss the requested changes. Buyers should evaluate report quality from the sample report before booking, not after delivery on a property in the contract window.
References
- ASHI Standard of Practice defining home inspector scope — American Society of Home Inspectors
- InterNACHI Residential Standards of Practice — International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
- International Code Council reference building codes — International Code Council