What Does the Home Inspector Look For

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The published ASHI Standard of Practice and the InterNACHI Residential Standards of Practice both define the home inspector’s scope in specific detail. Buyers who understand what the inspector looks for — and what gets excluded — read the resulting report more usefully and ask sharper follow-up questions during the post-inspection review call. This guide walks the inspection sequence as it actually happens on site, covers each major section in detail, and notes the routinely-excluded items that warrant separate specialist follow-up.

Part of our Home Inspections Explained guide — start there for the full picture →

Roof and roof drainage

The inspector walks the roof when pitch, condition, and weather allow safe access. When walking is not possible (steep pitch, slippery surface, ice or snow cover), the inspector uses binoculars from grade, a ladder partial-view from eaves, or increasingly a drone with photographic documentation. The scope includes covering materials (shingle, tile, metal, membrane), flashings around penetrations and at wall intersections, gutter and downspout condition, ventilation features (ridge vents, soffit vents, gable vents), and visible structural support from below in the attic.

The roof inspection looks for active leaks, deteriorated flashings, missing or damaged shingles, mossy or organic growth that holds moisture, improper repair work using mismatched materials, and inadequate slope or termination of gutter discharge away from the foundation. The inspector does not provide a remaining-life estimate to a specific year, but typically frames condition as “near end of useful life” or “early in service life” based on visible wear.

Exterior surfaces and grading

The exterior inspection covers siding (wood, vinyl, fiber cement, brick, stucco), trim and fascia, exterior paint and sealants, windows and exterior doors, decks and porches, walkways and driveways, and grading immediately around the foundation. The inspector documents visible deterioration, attachment defects on decks and railings, water-intrusion evidence around windows, and grading conditions that direct water toward the foundation rather than away from it.

Pre-1978 homes get additional attention on exterior paint condition because of the lead-paint risk. The inspector documents deteriorated or chipping paint and notes the year of construction; the report typically recommends a lead inspection by a separate testing service for visible deteriorated paint on older homes. For deeper context on the lead-paint timeline and what 1978 means, see our guide to the 1978 lead paint ban.

Grading is one of the most under-noticed exterior findings. Soil should slope away from the foundation at a minimum of six inches over the first ten feet. Front Range homes commonly have grading that has settled over time — the original grade was correct at construction, but soil settlement and landscape additions have created flat or reverse-sloped conditions that drive water toward basements and crawlspaces.

Structure and foundation

The structural inspection covers foundation walls (concrete, block, stone), structural beams and posts in basements and crawlspaces, floor framing and visible decking, wall framing where visible (typically in unfinished areas), and roof framing in the attic. The inspector looks for cracks (distinguishing cosmetic hairline cracks from structural displacement cracks), water staining, efflorescence on masonry, sagging or deflection in beams or joists, evidence of insect or rodent damage, and prior repair work.

Foundation cracks are categorized by type: shrinkage cracks (typically harmless, vertical or near-vertical, hairline width), settlement cracks (often diagonal, often widening with one side displaced from the other), and structural cracks (horizontal cracks in foundation walls, particularly mid-height, often indicating lateral soil pressure). The inspector documents the type and recommends specialist evaluation for cracks that suggest structural movement.

Front Range foundation issues are common given the expansive clay and bentonite soils across the metro area. Soil-driven foundation movement shows up as diagonal cracks at corner openings, sticking doors, and uneven floors. The inspector flags the pattern and recommends a structural engineer for evaluation when the findings warrant it.

Plumbing

The plumbing inspection covers supply piping (visible portions), drain-waste-vent piping (visible portions), water heater, plumbing fixtures, and functional flow and drainage at each fixture. The inspector identifies pipe materials (copper, galvanized, PEX, PVC, polybutylene, cast iron) and notes any known problematic materials. Polybutylene supply piping is a documented failure-prone material from 1978-1995 installations and is typically flagged for replacement consideration regardless of current condition.

Water heater inspection covers capacity, age (from serial number date code), TPR valve condition, expansion tank presence, venting, and visible signs of leakage or corrosion. Tank-type water heaters typically have a 10-12 year useful life; tankless units run 15-20 years. The inspector notes age and condition but typically does not provide a specific year remaining.

Sewer scope is not part of the standard inspection. The inspector recommends a sewer scope as a separate service ($150-250) when the home is older, has mature trees nearby, or shows any drain-flow issues during the inspection. Pre-1980 homes with original cast-iron drains and mature tree root systems nearby have a known sewer line condition risk worth verifying.

Electrical

The electrical inspection covers the service entrance, main service panel, sub-panels, visible wiring (typically in unfinished areas), branch circuit overcurrent protection, switches and receptacles (sampled, not exhaustive), GFCI and AFCI protection where required, and the grounding and bonding system. The inspector documents panel manufacturer and model, identifies any known problematic equipment (Federal-Pacific Stab-Lok panels, Zinsco panels, certain Challenger panels), and notes amperage and wire materials.

The inspector tests a sample of receptacles for correct wiring polarity, GFCI protection in wet locations (kitchens, bathrooms, garages, exterior), and AFCI protection on circuits that require it. Visible junction boxes, exposed splices outside boxes, and improperly sized overcurrent protection are documented.

Aluminum branch wiring (common in homes built 1965-1973) is a flagged finding. The inspector notes the presence and recommends evaluation by a licensed electrician for remediation options (CO/ALR-rated devices, AlumiConn connectors, or copper pigtailing).

HVAC

The heating and cooling inspection covers the furnace or boiler, central air conditioning condenser and air handler, ductwork (visible portions), thermostats, registers, and combustion air for fuel-burning equipment. The inspector tests the system in normal operating mode if outdoor conditions permit (air conditioning typically not tested below 65°F outdoor temperature given compressor protection).

The inspector documents the equipment age (from manufacturer date codes), capacity, fuel type, and visible condition. Heat exchanger inspection on gas furnaces is limited to visible surfaces with a flashlight and mirror; full heat-exchanger evaluation requires removal of access panels that is outside the standard inspection scope. The inspector recommends HVAC contractor follow-up when visible cracks, soot, or corrosion are observed.

For Front Range homes, the inspector often comments on whether the cooling system is sized appropriately for the climate (most Front Range homes need cooling for late afternoon high-altitude solar gain, but oversized AC equipment short-cycles and underperforms on humidity).

Interior, insulation, ventilation, and appliances

Interior inspection covers walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows from inside, stairs and railings, and operable mechanical features (smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors). The inspector documents water-stain evidence, visible mold or moisture damage, structural concerns visible from interior (cracks, sagging), and safety issues (railings, stair conditions, smoke alarm coverage).

Insulation inspection covers attic insulation type and approximate depth, visible wall insulation in unfinished areas, and crawlspace insulation. The inspector typically notes the R-value implied by depth and material (loose-fill cellulose at 12 inches is approximately R-38, fiberglass batts at the same depth are approximately R-30).

Ventilation includes attic ventilation (intake and exhaust balance), bathroom exhaust fans (presence and termination to exterior), kitchen range hood (presence and termination), and crawlspace ventilation where applicable. Improper bathroom exhaust termination into the attic is a frequent finding because it drives attic moisture problems that show up later as ice dams or mold.

Built-in appliances (dishwasher, range, oven, microwave, garbage disposal, built-in refrigerator) get a single operational cycle test. The inspector notes whether each appliance runs in its normal mode; full diagnostic testing is outside scope. For a broader look at the credentialing pathway that supports this inspection scope, see our guide to hiring a home inspector on the Front Range.

Site inspection sequence and timing

The inspection typically follows a fixed sequence to ensure nothing is missed. The inspector arrives 15-20 minutes before the scheduled start to walk the exterior and form an initial impression of the property before opening the door. Exterior walkaround typically takes 45-60 minutes for a 2,000 sq ft single-family detached. Roof access (if performed by walking) adds 20-30 minutes. Attic access and inspection adds 20-30 minutes.

Interior systems work consumes the largest block: 90-120 minutes for plumbing, electrical, HVAC, interior finishes, and appliance operation across a typical 2,000 sq ft home. Crawlspace or basement inspection adds 30-45 minutes for foundation, mechanical room equipment, and visible structural elements. Total time on site averages three to four hours for a typical single-family home; older homes, larger homes, and homes with extensive crawlspaces can run five to six hours.

Buyers are usually welcome to attend the inspection. Many inspectors prefer the buyer arrive in the last hour for the post-inspection walkthrough rather than for the entire duration. The walkthrough is when the inspector reviews findings on site, points to the specific defects, and answers buyer questions before report drafting. Attending the walkthrough is the single most valuable use of buyer time during the inspection process.

Tools the home inspector uses

Standard tools include a moisture meter for surface and pin-probe measurements on suspect water-damaged areas, a voltage tester and outlet polarity tester for electrical work, a GFCI tester, an infrared thermometer for HVAC discharge temperature spot-checks, a flashlight for inspecting dark areas and reflecting light onto surfaces, and a ladder appropriate for the roof and attic access.

Increasingly inspectors carry a thermal imaging camera (FLIR or similar), which surfaces hidden moisture, missing insulation, electrical hot spots, and ductwork leaks that are not visible to the naked eye. Drone capability for roof inspection on steep or otherwise inaccessible roofs is now common among working inspectors. Sewer-scope cameras are typically carried by inspectors who offer sewer scope as an add-on service.

What is explicitly excluded

The standard home inspection excludes destructive testing, code-compliance auditing, environmental sampling (asbestos, lead, mold, radon — though these are often offered as priced add-ons), specialist-scope items (sewer scope, structural engineering, geotechnical), and any cosmetic-preference opinion. The inspector observes accessible systems against the published standard of practice; everything else is excluded.

Buyers in pre-1978 homes should add lead inspection and visual asbestos assessment to the inspection package. Buyers in any home should add radon testing in known high-radon areas (Front Range Colorado qualifies). Buyers in homes with visible moisture or musty odors should add mold air sampling. These specialty inspections are not part of “what the home inspector looks for” in the standard sense; they are separate services that the buyer commissions to address risks the standard inspection acknowledges but does not investigate.

How findings are prioritized in the report

Most reports prioritize findings into three or four tiers. Safety items (electrical hazards, missing GFCI in wet locations, missing smoke alarms, structural concerns) appear at the top of the executive summary. Major-defect items (active leaks, end-of-life equipment, foundation movement, roof condition near end of service life) appear next. Maintenance items (sealant work, paint touch-up, minor weatherstripping replacement) appear in a separate section that buyers and sellers typically defer to the homeowner’s discretion rather than treating as deal-impact items.

Buyers should drive the inspection-objection conversation from the safety and major-defect tiers, not from the maintenance tier. Sellers will reasonably push back on objection letters that lump maintenance items into the same priority as safety findings. The inspector’s tier organization is a tool for keeping the conversation focused on the items that actually affect the buyer’s risk and the property’s value.

References

• ASHI Standard of Practice defining home inspector scope — American Society of Home Inspectors
• InterNACHI Residential Standards of Practice — International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
• International Code Council reference codes for inspection context — International Code Council