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Home Inspection: What It Covers, Costs and How It Works

By InspectandTest Editorial Team Published May 16, 2026 Updated October 3, 2026

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A home inspection is a visual, non-invasive examination of a house’s accessible systems, from the roof and foundation to the furnace, wiring, and plumbing, carried out by a trained inspector who documents the findings in a written report. For a typical single-family home the visit takes about two to four hours, the report arrives within a day or two, and the fee commonly runs a few hundred dollars. The inspection does not pass or fail a house, and it is not a code check or a warranty. It tells a buyer what is working, what is worn, and what is unsafe or likely to fail soon, so the purchase decision rests on facts rather than first impressions. This guide follows the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) Standard of Practice and explains what an inspection covers, what it leaves to specialists, what it costs, and how to use the report once it lands in your inbox.

What Is a Home Inspection?

A home inspection, also called a house inspection, is a snapshot of a property’s condition on one day. The inspector walks the exterior, the roof (from the surface or from a safe vantage point), the attic, the living spaces, the basement or crawl space, and the mechanical systems. Each component is evaluated for function, safety, and visible deterioration. Findings are recorded with photos and plain-language notes, and anything the inspector could not reach is listed as a limitation.

Two national bodies publish the standards most inspectors follow. ASHI’s Standard of Practice and InterNACHI’s Standards of Practice both define the minimum scope: what must be inspected, what must be reported, and what is excluded. Those standards matter because they make inspections comparable. An inspector who works to ASHI standards in Castle Rock should cover the same ground as one in Fort Collins, even if their reports look different.

Three points trip up first-time buyers. First, the inspection is visual. Inspectors do not open walls, pull carpet, or dismantle equipment. Second, it is not a code inspection; a 1970s house will not meet today’s building code, and the report is not meant to grade it against current code. Third, it is not a prediction. An inspector can say a water heater is near the end of its typical service life but cannot promise when it will fail.

What a Home Inspection Covers

Under the ASHI Standard of Practice, a general home inspection covers the readily accessible, visible portions of the major systems. The breakdown below follows the order most reports use.

Structure and Foundation

Foundation walls, slabs, visible framing, floor and ceiling structure, and signs of movement such as stair-step cracks in block walls, sloping floors, or doors that will not latch. Along the Front Range, expansive clay soils in parts of Douglas, Arapahoe, and Jefferson counties make foundation movement a frequent topic, and inspectors pay close attention to heaving slabs and basement wall cracks.

Exterior and Grading

Siding, trim, windows and doors from the outside, decks, porches, steps, railings, driveways and walkways that affect the house, and grading and drainage. Soil that slopes toward the foundation or downspouts that dump water against the wall are among the most common, and cheapest to fix, findings in any report.

Roof

Roof covering, flashing, skylights, chimneys, gutters, and roof drainage. Colorado’s hail belt makes this section consequential: bruised or fractured shingles, dented vents, and granule loss after a storm season can mean a near-term replacement or an insurance conversation.

Plumbing

Visible supply and drain piping, fixtures and faucets, water heater, fuel storage and distribution where visible, sump pumps, and functional flow and drainage. Inspectors run water at multiple fixtures at once to check pressure and look for leaks under sinks.

Electrical

Service entrance, main panel and subpanels, grounding, branch circuit wiring where visible, a representative number of outlets, switches, and fixtures, and the presence of GFCI and AFCI protection where expected. Double-tapped breakers, aluminum branch wiring, and panels from manufacturers with known problems are typical call-outs.

Heating, Cooling, and Ventilation

The furnace or boiler, air conditioner or heat pump, distribution systems, venting, and the normal operating controls. Inspectors run equipment through a normal cycle when conditions allow; they generally will not run an air conditioner when it is too cold outside, which happens often during Colorado winters.

Interior, Insulation, Fireplaces

Walls, ceilings, floors, stairs, a representative number of windows and doors, built-in appliances in many reports, attic insulation and ventilation, and fireplaces and solid-fuel appliances. Our guide to what home inspectors look for walks through each system in more depth, including the small details that often show up in a report.

What a Home Inspection Does Not Cover

The same standards that define the scope also define the exclusions. ASHI’s standard states that inspectors are not required to determine the presence of environmental hazards, including radon, mold, asbestos, and lead, and are not required to report on wood-destroying insects, the condition of systems that are concealed, or compliance with codes and regulations. An inspector who notices something suspicious will usually flag it, but a general inspection is not a hazard test.

That gap is where specialty inspections come in. The table below maps the common gaps to the service that fills them.

Concern Covered by general inspection? Specialty service that fills the gap
Radon gas No (often offered as an add-on) Short-term radon test with a continuous monitor or lab-analyzed kit
Mold Visible moisture and staining noted; no sampling Mold inspection with moisture mapping and, if warranted, air or surface sampling
Asbestos and lead paint No Accredited sampling and lab analysis, especially in pre-1980 homes
Main sewer line Drains run, but buried line not seen Sewer scope camera inspection
Wood-destroying insects Visible damage may be noted Pest (WDI) inspection
Foundation movement Visible signs reported Structural engineer evaluation
Furnace heat exchanger Operation checked; not dismantled HVAC technician evaluation
Well water and septic Usually no Water quality testing and septic inspection

In Colorado, radon is the add-on most buyers should take seriously. The EPA places most Front Range counties in its highest radon zone, and the agency’s home buyer’s guide recommends testing during a real-estate transaction. Moisture and mold findings are another common hand-off; the mold inspection and testing process picks up where a general inspector’s moisture meter leaves off. For a full rundown of the add-on services and when each is worth paying for, see our overview of specialty inspections.

The Home Inspection Process and Timeline

Most inspections happen inside a contract contingency window, so timing matters as much as thoroughness. In the standard Colorado purchase contract, the buyer’s key dates are the Inspection Objection Deadline and the Inspection Resolution Deadline, and both are negotiated at the offer stage. A typical sequence looks like this:

  1. Offer accepted (day 0). Book the inspector the same day if possible. Good inspectors in the Denver metro can book out several days in busy months.
  2. Inspection day (often days 2 to 5). The on-site visit usually takes two to four hours for an average house, longer for large, older, or multi-unit properties. Radon monitors, if ordered, are set at the start and run for at least 48 hours.
  3. Report delivery (within 24 to 48 hours). Most inspectors use software that produces a photo-heavy report the same or next day.
  4. Specialist follow-ups (as needed). Sewer scope, structural engineer, HVAC technician, or roofer, scheduled before the objection deadline.
  5. Objection and resolution. The buyer submits an objection notice; buyer and seller negotiate repairs, credits, or a price change, or the buyer terminates within the deadline.

For a step-by-step walkthrough of each stage, including what to bring on inspection day, see our home inspection process guide. If you are planning around a tight closing, remember that a 1,200-square-foot ranch and a 4,500-square-foot two-story with a finished basement are very different jobs, and the inspector can give a realistic on-site estimate when you book.

Should You Attend?

Yes, at least for the last hour. Walking the house with the inspector turns a long report into a conversation. Ask which findings are safety issues and which are routine wear, and have the inspector show you the main water shutoff, the electrical panel, the gas shutoff, and the furnace filter. Take your own photos of anything you want to price later. Most inspectors prefer buyers arrive toward the end so the bulk of the work happens without interruption, then walk through the highlights together.

How Much Does a Home Inspection Cost?

Pricing depends on square footage, age, foundation type, location, and add-ons. Industry estimates commonly place a standard inspection of a typical single-family home somewhere in the range of a few hundred dollars, with larger, older, or more complex homes costing more. Front Range pricing tends to sit near national norms, but quotes vary between firms. The figures below are broad ranges commonly quoted, not survey data, and should be confirmed with local inspectors.

Service What drives the price Commonly quoted range
General inspection, condo or townhome Smaller scope, shared roof and structure About $250 to $450
General inspection, single-family home Square footage, age, crawl space or basement About $350 to $650
Large or older home (3,500+ sq ft or pre-1950) More systems, more time on site $600 and up
Radon test add-on Monitor type, travel About $100 to $250
Sewer scope add-on Line length, access point About $125 to $300

The buyer usually pays, because the report protects the buyer. Our guide to whether the buyer or seller pays for a home inspection covers the exceptions, including pre-listing inspections and repair credits, and the home inspection cost guide breaks local pricing down further. A low quote is not automatically a good deal. One missed roof or sewer defect can cost more than the difference between the cheapest inspector and the most thorough one many times over.

How to Read a Home Inspection Report

A first report can be alarming. A 40-year-old house in Lakewood might generate 60 or more findings, and almost every home produces a long list. The trick is to sort by consequence, not by count. Most reports already group findings into categories; the labels vary, but they usually map to the four tiers below.

  • Safety hazards. Missing GFCI protection near water, a gas leak, a backdrafting water heater, a missing handrail, an open junction box. These come first regardless of cost.
  • Major defects. Items that are expensive or that cause further damage: active roof leaks, failing foundation walls, a cracked heat exchanger, improper electrical panel work, chronic water intrusion.
  • Items nearing end of life. A 20-year-old furnace, a roof with a few seasons left, a water heater past its typical service life. Not broken, but a predictable expense to budget or negotiate.
  • Maintenance and minor items. Caulking, loose door hardware, a dripping faucet, missing downspout extensions. Normal homeownership tasks.

Read the summary first, then the full body, and pay attention to the limitations section. A line that says “crawl space not entered due to stored items” or “roof not walked due to snow” is a gap, not a clean bill of health. Ask the seller to clear access and schedule a return visit if a major area was not seen. Our walkthrough of what is in a home inspection report explains each section with example language.

Watch the inspector’s verbs. “Recommend evaluation by a licensed electrician” means the inspector saw enough to be concerned but not enough to diagnose. That is a prompt to bring in a specialist before the objection deadline, not a finding to ignore or to negotiate on guesswork.

Negotiating After the Inspection

The report is information first and leverage second. How much leverage it carries depends on the market, the contract, and how serious the findings are. In a slower market, sellers are more willing to repair or credit; in a multiple-offer market, buyers who send a 40-item repair list often lose goodwill or the house.

Buyers typically have four options once the report is in:

  1. Ask for repairs. Best for safety items and work that needs a licensed contractor. Request receipts and, where relevant, permits, and confirm completion at the final walkthrough.
  2. Ask for a credit or price reduction. Often cleaner than seller repairs, because the buyer controls who does the work and how. Lenders may cap credits, so check with the loan officer.
  3. Accept the house as is. Reasonable when findings are minor or already priced in.
  4. Terminate within the deadline. Appropriate when a major defect changes the economics of the purchase or the seller will not engage.

Back every request with the inspector’s photos and, for big-ticket items, a contractor’s written estimate. A specific number from a roofer carries far more weight than “the roof looks old.” Skip cosmetic items and normal wear; focusing on the five or six findings that matter makes a reasonable seller more likely to say yes.

Choosing a Home Inspector

Colorado does not currently license home inspectors at the state level, so credentials, experience, and sample reports carry more weight here than in states with a licensing exam. Membership in ASHI or InterNACHI signals that the inspector has agreed to a standard of practice and a code of ethics, and both associations have continuing-education requirements.

Inspector Vetting Checklist

  • Membership in ASHI or InterNACHI, and which Standard of Practice the inspection follows.
  • Years in the business and approximate number of inspections completed.
  • A full sample report, not a marketing excerpt. Look for clear photos, plain language, and prioritized findings.
  • Errors-and-omissions and general liability insurance.
  • Whether they walk roofs, enter crawl spaces, and use tools such as moisture meters or infrared cameras.
  • Radon credentials (NRPP or NRSB) if they offer radon testing.
  • Turnaround time for the report and availability for follow-up questions after delivery.
  • The pre-inspection agreement, including any limits on liability.

Choose your own inspector rather than defaulting to one supplied by the listing side; independence is the point of the exercise. The home inspector hiring guide covers the vetting process end to end, and our checklist on how to hire a home inspector includes interview questions you can send by email.

Older Homes and Special Situations

Homes built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint, and federal rules require sellers to disclose known lead hazards and give buyers an opportunity to test. Homes of that era and earlier can also contain asbestos in vermiculite attic insulation, pipe wrap, popcorn ceilings, or vinyl flooring. Neither is part of a general inspection. If the house is older and the inspector notes suspect materials, budget for accredited sampling before you plan any renovation.

New construction deserves an inspection too. Builders’ warranty walkthroughs are not independent, and inspectors regularly find missing insulation, unconnected ducts, and roof flashing errors in brand-new homes. Many buyers schedule a pre-drywall inspection and a final inspection before closing, then an 11-month inspection before the builder warranty expires.

Sellers can order an inspection too. A pre-listing inspection lets an owner find and fix problems before the house hits the market, price it realistically, and avoid surprises halfway through escrow. It can shorten negotiations, because buyers see the issues disclosed up front rather than discovering them during their own objection period. Buyers should still commission an independent inspection, since the seller chose the inspector and the report may be weeks or months old. Treat a seller’s report as a useful preview and a second set of eyes, not a substitute.

Condos and townhomes have a smaller inspection scope because the HOA maintains the roof, exterior, and structure. Review the HOA’s reserve study and meeting minutes alongside the unit inspection, since a special assessment for a roof or siding project can matter more than anything inside the unit.

Should You Get a Home Inspection? A Quick Decision Guide

For almost every buyer the answer is yes. A home inspection costs a small fraction of the purchase price and is the only independent look at the house before the money is committed. Use these questions to decide what to add:

  • Is the home in Colorado’s Front Range? Add a radon test.
  • Was it built before about 1980, or does it have mature trees near the main line? Add a sewer scope.
  • Are there signs of water in the basement or crawl space, or a musty smell? Consider a moisture and mold evaluation.
  • Built before 1978, with renovations planned? Consider lead and asbestos sampling.
  • Visible foundation cracks wider than a credit card, or sloping floors? Book a structural engineer before the objection deadline.
  • Waiving the inspection to win a bidding war? Consider an information-only inspection instead, which keeps the offer clean while still giving you the facts.

A home inspection will not make a house perfect, and it will not catch everything hidden behind drywall. It will, however, surface the problems that are visible to a trained eye, rank them, and give you time and documentation to act. That combination is why lenders, agents, and consumer agencies all recommend one before closing.

References

Frequently asked questions

What does a home inspection include?

Under the ASHI Standard of Practice, a home inspection covers the visible, accessible parts of the structure, exterior, roof, plumbing, electrical, heating and cooling, interior, insulation and ventilation, and fireplaces. The inspector documents defects, safety issues, and wear in a written report and lists any areas that could not be accessed.

How long does a home inspection take?

The on-site visit usually takes two to four hours for a typical single-family home, longer for large or older properties. Most inspectors deliver the written report within 24 to 48 hours. Add-ons like radon tests run at least 48 hours.

What does a home inspection not cover?

It is visual and non-invasive, so concealed wiring, plumbing inside walls, and the buried sewer line are out of scope. Radon, mold sampling, asbestos, lead paint, and wood-destroying insects are excluded under the standards and are handled by specialty inspections.

How much does a home inspection cost?

Industry estimates commonly put a standard single-family inspection in the range of a few hundred dollars, often around $350 to $650, with larger or older homes costing more. Radon testing and sewer scoping are typically priced as add-ons.

Can a buyer back out after a home inspection?

Usually, if the contract includes an inspection contingency and the buyer acts before the deadline. In the standard Colorado contract, the buyer submits an objection by the Inspection Objection Deadline and can terminate if the issues are not resolved. Check the specific contract terms with your agent.

Buying in the Denver metro or anywhere along the Front Range and want an inspector who will walk the roof, crawl the crawl space, and explain the report in plain language? Tell us about the property and we will connect you with a vetted local inspector.