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Home Inspector Check List: What Pros Document in 2026

By InspectandTest Editorial Team Published May 16, 2026

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A home inspector check list, written from the inspector’s perspective, follows a defined standard of practice that limits both the scope of work and the type of opinions an inspector can offer. ASHI and InterNACHI each publish residential standards that read more like a contract than a checklist; understanding what those standards include explains both why inspectors sometimes seem to leave items out and why their reports stop short of the engineering-grade analysis some buyers expect. This guide walks through the inspector’s checklist as the inspector uses it.

What a Home Inspector Check List Actually Contains

A home inspector check list is built around four governing rules from the standards of practice. First, the inspection is visual and non-invasive: inspectors look at exposed components and operate normal user controls, but they do not dismantle equipment, move stored items, or perform engineering analysis. Second, the inspection is observational: inspectors describe what they see rather than predicting future life expectancy or assigning specific repair costs. Third, the inspection covers only items installed and accessible at the time of the inspection. Fourth, certain systems and substances are explicitly excluded by the standard.

Within those rules, the check list itself follows the same nine-system architecture used across the industry: site and grading, exterior, roof, attic, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, interior, and appliances. Each system has a defined “shall inspect” list of items and a defined “shall not be required to” list of items the inspector may include at their discretion but is not obligated to. The pillar guide on how to hire a home inspector covers credentialing and which standards different inspectors follow.

The Exterior and Roof Portions

The exterior section of a home inspector check list opens with site conditions visible from the property. Inspectors document grading slope, surface drainage, vegetation clearance from the structure, walkways, driveways, and any retaining walls. They look at the exterior wall cladding and trim, identify the material, and note condition issues like rot, insect damage, cracking, missing caulk, paint failure, and improper flashing at openings. Decks, porches, balconies, stoops, steps, and railings are inspected for ledger attachment, post-to-beam connections, fastener corrosion, board condition, and guardrail height.

The roof section requires the inspector to either walk the roof or inspect it from another vantage point (ladder, drone, binoculars from grade). The standard specifies that the inspector must document covering material, flashing condition, drainage components, skylights and roof penetrations, and the chimney exterior. The inspector also enters the attic when accessible and looks at the underside of the decking for evidence of leakage. The neighboring guide on the home inspection checklist PDF walks through the same scope from a buyer’s vantage.

Plumbing and Electrical Sections

The plumbing section of the check list requires inspection of the main water supply shutoff location, exposed supply and drain piping material and visible condition, the water heater (operation, age, capacity, T&P valve presence and discharge, combustion air supply for gas units), fuel storage and fuel distribution systems where present, and sump pumps where present. Inspectors operate every plumbing fixture (running water at each faucet, flushing each toilet, filling tubs to drain capacity) and observe for leaks, slow drains, and cross-connections. They do not test water quality or quantify flow rates.

The electrical section starts at the service entrance. Inspectors document service drop or lateral, service voltage and amperage, main panel manufacturer and model, branch-circuit panel conditions, grounding electrode system, and the bonding of metallic systems. They open the dead front when safely accessible, looking at conductor sizing, breaker condition, double-tapped lugs, presence of obsolete or recalled equipment, and the integrity of the grounding system. Branch-circuit testing covers a representative sample of receptacles for polarity, ground, GFCI function, and AFCI function where required.

HVAC and Mechanical Systems

HVAC inspection requires operating the system using normal user controls in the appropriate mode for the weather. Heating systems are inspected by activating the thermostat and observing combustion characteristics on fuel-burning equipment, draft and venting integrity, distribution at supply registers, return air capacity, and the condition of accessible flues and chimneys. Cooling systems are operated when outdoor temperatures exceed roughly 60 degrees Fahrenheit; below that, the inspector documents the system as not operated due to weather to avoid compressor damage.

The inspector is required to describe the energy source, equipment type, distribution method, and the apparent age of major components from data plates. They are not required to inspect humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, or solar systems unless contracted. Fireplaces and solid-fuel-burning appliances are inspected for visible defects at the firebox and damper, but a Level 2 chimney inspection by a CSIA-certified sweep is the standard recommendation for any home over five years old. The companion buyer home inspection checklist PDF covers what buyers should ask about each system.

Interior, Appliance, and Insulation Sections

The interior section covers walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows, steps, stairs, and railings. Inspectors note finish condition, plumb and level conditions, signs of water staining or active leaks, sticking or out-of-square openings (a flag for framing movement), single-pane windows where code requires safety glazing, and missing safety glazing within designated hazard zones (near tubs, within 18 inches of the floor at doors, within 24 inches of door openings).

Built-in appliances inspected typically include the range, oven, dishwasher, garbage disposal, range hood, microwave, and trash compactor. Refrigerators and laundry equipment are not required components of a standard inspection but are often included when the equipment conveys with the property. Inspectors run a basic operational cycle on each appliance, confirming power, controls, and apparent function. They do not test for compliance with manufacturer specifications or run extended diagnostic cycles. Insulation and ventilation are documented at attics, crawlspaces, and other accessible locations, with depth measurements at the attic and ventilation type identification.

What the Standards Explicitly Exclude

The check list also documents what is not included by default. The standards explicitly exclude inspection for the presence of asbestos, lead-based paint, radon, mold, mildew, microbial growth, water quality, soil contamination, and other environmental hazards. They exclude geological evaluation, septic system function (other than visible surface conditions), well systems beyond a basic pressure check, swimming pools, hot tubs, irrigation systems, alarm and security systems, low-voltage wiring, and solar systems. They exclude code compliance verification because code applies to the standards in effect when the home was built or permitted, not current code.

Excluded systems can be added as paid scope additions or scheduled with specialty vendors. Most buyers schedule sewer scope, radon, chimney, and (in pre-1978 homes) lead and asbestos sampling as separate engagements. The inspector’s check list will typically note suspect materials and refer the buyer to qualified specialists rather than attempting to diagnose them within the general inspection scope.

How Inspectors Categorize Findings

Inspectors group findings into tiers that buyers can use directly in their inspection objection. The top tier is “safety hazard,” covering anything that risks injury, fire, electrocution, gas leak, carbon monoxide exposure, or structural failure. The second tier is “major repair” or “significant defect,” covering items that materially affect habitability or function. The third tier is “repair” or “monitor,” covering items that work now but need attention within years rather than decades. The fourth tier is “informational,” “cosmetic,” or “deferred maintenance,” covering items that are normal wear or aesthetic concerns. Different reports use slightly different labels, but the four-tier triage is consistent across the industry.

How Buyers Should Read the Inspector’s Check List Output

Buyers should treat the inspector’s report as a triage document, not a punch list. The safety and major-repair tiers are the items worth raising in negotiations. The repair tier deserves a maintenance plan but rarely a price concession. The cosmetic tier is the buyer’s problem after closing. Trying to renegotiate every finding signals to the seller that the buyer is either inexperienced or fishing for concessions and tends to produce less favorable outcomes than a focused objection on the top two tiers.

What Distinguishes a Quality Inspector Check List from a Cursory One

Not all home inspector check lists are equal. Quality inspectors document every system in detail, photograph each finding, and provide context for why an observation matters. Cursory inspectors check items off without elaboration, photograph only the most obvious defects, and produce reports so generic that the buyer cannot distinguish between a clean home and one with significant issues. The difference often shows in the report’s photo count: quality reports for a 2,000 square foot home typically include 100 to 250 photographs; cursory reports include 20 to 50.

Other quality indicators include narrative depth (each system gets multiple paragraphs of observation rather than a single line), specific recommendations (named brands or types of repair rather than “consult a professional”), and the inspector’s willingness to discuss findings verbally during and after the walk. Cursory inspectors tend to refer everything to specialists and produce minimal narrative; quality inspectors take ownership of the observation and provide a confidence-weighted opinion.

How the Check List Adapts to Different Property Types

The standard nine-system check list adapts to property type. Single-family detached homes use the full check list. Condominiums limit the check list to items the unit owner is responsible for (typically interior of the unit, in-unit mechanical systems, and any exclusive-use exterior areas like balconies). Townhomes fall between, with the inspector covering the unit fully but noting shared elements (party walls, shared roof sections) as either out of scope or limited scope.

Mobile and manufactured homes use a modified check list that incorporates HUD code-specific items: the chassis and tongue, the tie-down system, the skirting, and the pier and beam foundation. The general systems (plumbing, electrical, HVAC) follow the standard check list with some additional considerations for the closer tolerances of factory construction. Inspectors who specialize in manufactured homes typically follow a HUD-specific protocol rather than the standard ASHI or InterNACHI residential standards.

Continuing Education and Why It Matters

Inspector check lists evolve over time as building codes change, new construction techniques become common, and known defect patterns emerge. Quality inspectors maintain continuing education to track these changes. ASHI requires 20 hours of continuing education annually for members; InterNACHI requires 24. State licensing where it exists adds additional requirements (Texas requires 32 hours over two years; Florida requires 14 hours annually).

Topics that have shifted significantly in the last decade include AFCI requirements (added to bedrooms in 2008 NEC, expanded in subsequent cycles), Federal Pacific and Zinsco panel hazard awareness (now treated as known defects rather than acceptable), polybutylene piping (now treated as whole-house replacement candidate), and aluminum branch wiring (now treated as requiring specific repair protocols). Buyers should ask inspectors about their continuing education in the last two years; the answer reveals whether the inspector is current or relying on outdated training.

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